Cattleya is one of the most widespread and widely cultivated orchids in the world, because of its beautiful color, large flowers, rich flower buds and fragrant aromas.
Cattleya orchid is beautiful and especially charming aromas are becoming the ultimate enjoyment of the players. Cattleya orchid has a very long life span, can live up to 20 - 30 years if good care. Cattleya is one of the most widespread and widely cultivated orchids in the world, because of its beautiful color, large flowers, rich flower buds and fragrant aromas.
THE ORIGIN OF CATTLEYA ORCHIDS:
In 1818, William Cattley, a British tropical botanist who was working at Barnett, received a package of plants sent from Brazil. He found a strange leafy plant used to wrap and plant the plants in the package. He planted these strange plants in his nursery.
By November of the same year, these strange plants bloom. These flowers were astonishing for British noblemen because of the brilliant beauty, fascinating and charming aromas. Very soon they were given the name of the Queen of Flowers.
In 1821, Dr John Lindley, a plant taxonomist who was commissioned by William Cattley to replace Sir Joseph Banks, continuing the work of describing and classifying plants in Cattley's collection. And Lindley took the name of Cattley for the Queen of the Flowers, Cattleya labiata, in honor of the first European to plant it.
CATTLEYA ORCHIDS CLASSIFICATION:
In terms of appearance, Cattleya can be divided into two groups:
Unifoliate:
Each plants only carries one leaf on top. This group usually gives 1 to 6 flowers per an inflorescence. Very large flowers with very bright colors and aromatic, such as Cattleya eldorado, gaskelliana, labiata, lueddemanniana, mendelii, mossiae, percivaliana, schroederae, trianaei, warscewiczii ...
The stem of this group is about 8-30 cm high, thick dark green, flexible, 20 cm long, 7 cm wide. Flowers can be very large to up to 25cm in diameter. Cattleya labiata and trianaei are the most common species in the group with many subtypes.
Anything, however, has an exception. The exception here is Cattleya luteola, although it belongs to the Cattleya one leaf group, but it has small stems and small flowers.
Bifoliate:
Each plants has 2 or 3 leaves on top. This group usually produces smaller flowers and grows in clusters such as Cattleya aclandiae, amethystoglossa, aurantiaca, bowringiana, harrisoniana, intermedia, leopoldii, schilleriana, skinneri, walkeriana ...
The stems of this group are smaller but very tall, with a mean height of about 60 cm but also up to 1.5 m high, carrying 2 or 3 leaves on top. The leaves are also smaller, about 20cm long, light blue.
Inflorescence out from a green wrap on the top, bring flowers and maybe up to 15 flowers. Smaller flowers, only about 10-15cm in diameter and petal usually elongated.
In the Cattleya two leaves group the most common are Cattleya skinneri and Cattleya hardyana. Cattleya skinneri is classified by Bateman and named in honor of the explorer and botanist George Ure Skinner.
Cattleya skinneri is an epiphyte that grows on the surface of a plant and derives its moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, water (in marine environments) or sometimes live on the cliff. The stems are 50 cm high and carry 2 oval leaves 10-20 cm long, 3-6 cm wide at the top. Inflorescence out from a green wrap on the top of mature plants, have 4-12 pink-purple flowers, up to 8cm.
Cattleya skinneri has many sub-species such as white, or white with purple. Cattleya skinneri is very popular with orchid breeders for breeding as they are very healthy and fast growing.
Cattleya hardyana is a natural hybrid between Cattleya dowiana var aurea and Cattleya warscewiczii found in 1886 by Hardy's group and brought back to England when the blooms were named Hardy. Later in the nursery people also breed between the two varieties and get the same results.
In nature, naturally occurring Cattleya species such as Cattleya guatemalensis, found in Guatemala by Linden and Reichenbach, are the result of natural pollination between Cattleya skinneri and Cattleya aurantiaca. Shortly thereafter in Honduras, Ames and Correll found a cattleya that they named Cattleya pachecoi, which in fact was Cattleya guatemalensis.
Or as Cattleya brasiliense is a natural hybrid between Cattleya bicolor and Cattleya harrisoniana.
Cattleya artificial hybrid flowers:
The first Cattleya hybrid, Cattleya Hybrida, was registered by Veitch Corporation on January 1, 1863. Cattleya Hybrida is bred between Cattleya guttata and Cattleya loddigesii.
Up to now, thousands of Cattleya breeds have been bred to produce all kinds of shapes and colors, many of which have been printed on stamps.
Not only do they breed new cattleyas in the same genus but also hybridize with other genera in the same genealogy as Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis.
Not only that, people still have three generations, even four generations in the same genealogy as:
Or there are surprisingly complex combinations such as SLC Estella Jewell crossed by many generations of 16 different species.
GROW AND CARE CATTLEYA ORCHID:
In order to be good, the following factors should be taken into consideration:
1. Ideal temperature for grow and care Cattleya orchid:
Temperature is important for plants because it directly affects the growth of plants. Low temperatures will cause the plants to grow slowly, and high temperatures will make the plants grow faster. Cattleyas are preferred at night temperatures of 55-60 ° F or 22.8 ° C and 70-85 ° F or 21.1-29.4 ° C for daytime. Temperature between day and night should be between 15-20 ° F or 8-11 ° C for new bloom.
2. Ideal humidity for grow and care Cattleya orchid:
Cattleyas need 35-60% humidity during the day and 60-80% at night. With high humidity, leaves and roots absorb water in the air, which helps the orchid grow and give flowers more durable, while also helping the flowers less bud drop in the hot and dry season.
3. Ideal light for grow and care Cattleya orchid:
Light is important because it helps the plant to produce nutrients and grow rapidly. By daylight, plants create nutrients to feed the plants, while also exhaling and exhausting carbon dioxide (CO2) to make the plant faster. At night, due to lack of light, the plants do not produce nutrients but still respire and still grow because of the nutrient retention in the leaves or in the roots. The Cattleya orchid preferred 30-50% natural light or about 2000-4000 foot candles.
Cattleya needs light but not direct. A plastic sheeting is very good for growing Cattleya orchids. If the Cattleya orchard is grown on a rooftop, the best light coverage is 60% or 40% light. In the orchard should not hang the pots close together, there must be a distance between the pots will give the tree enough light and breathable. However, if the orchids are planted high, the trees should be hung close to each other to prevent wind.
Cattleya can also be grown outdoors in the condition that the plants should be planted from small in the pots, should be placed close together and the climate should be cool and moist.
Newly planted Cattleya, need to cover 70%. New mature Cattleya need to cover 50 - 60%, so choose the 50% light net.
Too much light will cause the leaves to burn yellow and to kill the seedlings, while the lack of light will slow down the plant. Dark green leaves are lacking in light and that is why plants are difficult to produce flower. If the leaves are medium green or yellowish green, the Cattleya orchids are easier to flower and the flowers will be darker.
4. Water for Cattleya orchid:
Cattleyas need water to create nutrients to nourish the plant. In the plant's nutrients, we see carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. In water (H2O) there is hydrogen and oxygen and carbon is derived from CO2 to produce nutrients. In nature, Cattleya gets water and humidity almost every day, but because the roots are only clinging to the trunk or the air, so when wet, it will dry out in the day. When planted, we should irrigate and let it dry and then re-irrigate. If you plant in plastic pots, usually about a week to dry. If you irrigate continuity, the roots will rot and the plant will die. If the leaves and bulbs are thick, there is enough water, if it is wrinkled is the lack of water.
5. Fertilizer for Cattleya orchid:
Fertilizers will help plants grow faster and stimulate more flowering. Cattleyas need more light so they require more fertilizer than Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis. It is recommended to use fertilizer 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 to irrigate all year round, but you can use 10-30-30 in the flowering season. When fertilizing, we should mix ¼ or ½ teaspoon into 1 gallon (1 gallon equals 3.78541 liters) of water to irrigate each week. When the tip of the leaf is burned black, that is too much fertilizer. It should be only watered for 2 weeks then apply fertilizer again.
Cattleya orchids can flower any season of the year provided that the growing parts are capable of growing, thus fertilizing the orchid in addition to maintaining the growth and development of the plant, is also to control the flowering of species.
If your orchid is healthy and starts growing new buds you would like to have a Cattleya flower bloom in the next 3 months, you will satisfy the requirement easily by using 6-30-30 or 10-55 -10. Remember that there is always a conflict between growth and reproduction, a disadvantage in terms of growth also makes the plants flowering. Therefore, when plants are flowering it will be exhausted, so the orchid is planted according to the needs of its habitat that poorly flower, you have to reconsider whether the process of nourishment is mistaken. An adult orchid with enough health will naturally germinate. So if the orchid is weak we should not squeeze the flower, the orchid will lose power. Flowering promotion is only used when the plant is healthy or in some special cases.
6. Replace Pot of Cattleya orchid
We should replace pots in the summer as the flowers and roots begin to grow. Cattleya is preferred to grow in bark or moss. Usually planted with bark mixed with 10% coconut chip, husk to keep moisture and 10% perlite or coal for ventilation. We should replace pots once a year because the bark will cause root rot. Before replacing the pot, we need to soak the bark and coconut chip for 2 days to remove resin in the bark. Then soak with fertilizer, nacosan or physan 20 for disinfection and B1 to help root faster recovery.
7. Swift of Cattleya orchid:
One of the most important factors, but often less noticeable, is that the shaking in plants is nothing less than that of animals and humans. In nature, plants are inherently attached to animals. This vibration from the sounds of insects, birds, and beasts also helps the plant to grow.
8. Wind of Cattleya orchid:
Directly causing the plants to shake and make the plant less susceptible to disease. All of these factors are a necessity of many plants in general and Cattleyas in particular. If we meet the above requirements, we will plant more easily and successfully. Besides learning, our own experience in the climate, location, water that adapt to the needs of orchids will help us succeed.
PEST CONTROL FOR GROW AND CARE CATTLEYA ORCHIDS
Prevention and treatment of common pests and diseases when growing Cattleya orchids:
1. Pests of Cattleya orchid:
Scale insects: Brownish aphids. These species often cling to leaves, stems and even on roots to sap resin. More dangerous is that these species will cling to the nodes and sap the resin causing the nodes to die. These species must be regularly prevented from spawning and causing damage to the garden. Prevent by manual treatment, use strong drugs such as Regent, Lannate, polytrin, ... according to the recommended concentration.
Thrips: Usually found in coconut fiber, bark, bulb or excessive use of organic fertilizers in the form of body such as oil cake, boron, ... can use the type insecticides such as Bassa, confidor, ... use the recommended concentration on the package, should be sprayed 2 times / month.
- Snails: Sloughing young roots and rotting new shoots. Should spray snails-killer when the weather is too humid.
Red spider mites: a very small insect, no longer than 1/2 mm long, under the magnifying glass visible as a bite, with eight legs, young spiders are yellow, adults turn red. Occurs much in the dry season, less in the rainy season. Lives hide under old leaves into clusters, where the spider lurks, leaves turn into small white spots and then join together to turn black and wither. Red spider grows very fast, when detected they must be eliminated immediately if not the orchid plants will stop growing. Regular and continuous use redmedies should be done to kill both the old and the spawn. The best remedies available on the packaging and the best spraying time are: Commite, Nissorun ... at 8-9 am when sunny.
Mealy bugs: The body is soft, the outside is covered with a white layer like cotton and gloss. The aphids of this aphid are attracted to ants and are a source of Sacty molds. This fungus does not harm the plants, the leaves where the mushrooms grow do not receive light for photosynthesis. When the aphids suck the orchid, they often produce some toxins that cause the orchid to stop growing, around the mushroom that grows yellow and leaves it wither. Powdered aphids are treated with insecticides but must be mixed with the adhesive to effectively spray.
2. Fungal Infections of Cattleya orchid
Black rot disease: Often occurs during rainy season in gardens with high humidity or over watering. This disease usually causes serious damage, especially to the seedlings. This disease usually occurs in the roots and then spreads to the trunk. Initial shoots in young shoots make young shoots rotten and brown, when held in, leave the body easily, soft and full of water. In the first cattleya, the disease usually arises from roots, and then spreads rapidly to the body. Plants will not rot or leave as in Dendrobium Pompadour but they will dry and die right in the pot, the diseased plant will spread quickly to another tree. It is caused by Collectotrichum sp and Phytophthora sp, but mostly by Phytophthora sp. cause. The application of dissolved fertilizers does not stop when irrigating the tree will bind tops and make fungus easily harm. In the rainy season, if fertilizing with high protein content causes disease. Preventive measures: In seedlings are more susceptible to disease, separate the diseased plant and use the vaccine for the remaining plants by spraying or dipping the whole plant into a fungus solution. In large trees, cut off the rotten parts, if rotten, then withdraw the sprout and spray. Fungicides can be used as: Kasumin, TopsinM, CuzateM8, Score, Super Tilt ... according to the recommended concentration on the package.
Anthracnose: The leaves have rounded reddish brown spots, burned brown and then spread into many concentric circles, eventually dry. Trace size depends on the type of orchid and depending on the environment that the fungus grows, if it rains heavily, the leaves will rot immediately. Caused by Glocosporium sp. and Collectotrichum sp. cause. Diseases usually occur in the rainy season should be prevented before, usually treated by cutting off the infected leaves and spraying drugs such as Mancozep, Dithal, Vicaben, ... according to the recommended level.
Leaf blight: This disease is more common than anthracnose, which often develops at the same time, which is more severe. At first the disease causes the leaves to dry and turn into light brown, usually starting with a black spot on the leaf, may be from the beginning of the leaf to dry or from the root of the leaf quickly spread and then dry the leaves. This is due to the Phylostica fungus, which usually develops through spores and is released in the air by the wind. Prevention: Spray Score or Super Tilt, spray 5d / time until the plant is out.
Wilt: Root wilt is a common but equally important disease. It can be said that except Cymbidium does not suffer from this disease and it is a big obstacle for orchid growers. Phytoplankton: The roots are dried up, young plants with this disease are yellowing from the bottom and dead trees. For plants that have grown well, the plants do not die, but the roots are dry and will cause the plants to grow slowly, if the roots are dry, the plants become weaker. Cause: Due to the fungus Selectrotium rolfsii, also known as fungus, these lymphs can survive in very long time, when conditions of moisture and high temperature these lobes grow into hyphae and cause disease. Very quickly, if not treated immediately, can damage the whole garden. Measures for treatment: Can use drugs such as Anvil, Sumi eight, ... spray into the roots, spray 2 times a week when the disease began.
3. Diseases caused by bacteria of Cattleya orchid:
Soft rot: Symptoms: From a small dot originated from a bruise on the leaf tips caused by rain drops too strong and spread quickly to brown as boiling water, then rot all shoots. Cause: Erwinia Carotovora bacteria, commonly found in gardens with high humidity, inadequate care and thrive in the rainy season. Often this bacterium invades the plant through wounds or bites from the worm and spreads very vigorously, causing the plant to die after 2-3 days of infection. Preventive treatment: Cut the rotten part and bring the whole plant soaked in Kasumin 5g / lit solution for 15 minutes or use Agrimycin. Stop watering for 2-3 days after spraying. In case of severe illness, take the plant out of the pot and soak in the medicinal water above, then transfer to the new pot. Pots of diseased orchids use a 1:50 formol solution mixed with water and rinsed. Then spray the entire orchid garden to complete the disease completely.
Brown rot: Symptoms: Cattleya orchid appears dark green spots on the leaves, wound round, spread very quickly. The cells where the lesions turn brown or black, soft and filled with water. If this happens, the lesions will spread to the whole plant very quickly. In Cattleya, the normal sign is found in the leaves and it is difficult to spread to the trunk. Caused by Phytomonas bacteria plus mechanical damage during the rainy season. Measures to prevent: Limit the causes of mechanical damage to plants in the rainy season, keeping the orchid not too moist. Use antibiotics in agriculture as Agrimycin spray the garden and stop irrigation for 2-3 days. You can use 1 gram of Streptomycin + 2 tablets of Tetracylin 500 dissolved in 1.5 liters of water to treat the plant.
4. Diseases caused by viruses of Cattleya orchid:
Symptoms of orchid viral infection are often seen as spots of spots, irregular green, blue spots, dark green. Irregular flowers mixed with white streaks, small flowers, short branches. Plants are often barren, not grow. In Cattleya, the virus usually causes white streaks in flowers.
Treatment: There is no other treatment except to burn off the diseased plant, sterilize the extractor and clean the orchid garden.
P/S: In preventing and treating orchids, it is not always important to use the medicine, but it is more important to have a good hygienic environment, to use appropriate fertilizers to increase disease resistance and proper irrigation to limit the development of disease sources.
3 SMALL TIPS FOR GROWING AND CARING CATTLEYA ORCHIDS
Growing Cattleya can be said to be one of the difficulties when we are truly engaged. Unlike other orchids, Cattleya cultivation requires a very specialized care regime. But as you grasp the way you grow, you get the best orchid and can be said to be one of the most valuable orchids in terms of price.
1. Grow Cattleya in a greenhouse environment
If you want to grow orchids such as Cattleya, you really need to have a greenhouse. Cattleya orchids are hardly or unlikely to grow in an outdoor environment. In fact, although there are some places where it is possible to grow Cattleya outdoors, it is also very difficult to move plants. Hence, the solution of Cattleya growing in the greenhouse seems to have been successful.
Growing Cattleya in a specialized space like a greenhouse will allow us to control humidity and temperature accurately. Cattleya will thrive when the habitat has a humidity of 60% -> 70% during the day and temperature is not less than 20oC. Your beloved orchid can wither or worse die if you do not comply with these prerequisites.
2. Add a little sunshine but not too much.
Adding a "tip" to growing Cattleya is a good way to meet the lighting requirements. Compared with your regular orchids, Cattleya needs more light but not too much to kill. Tropical sunshine is the perfect light for our orchid. If you really want Cattleya orchids to flourish, then you need to follow these basic principles when lighting up them. Although there may be many things to do, it will be worth it.
In the summer you can let the plants be sun-dried in the morning and late afternoon. However, from 11h to 15h, you can not leave the plant in the direct sunlight as the tree will burn. If you find it time-consuming, you can order cattleya orchids under a larger shade. This way, you can both protect the basin and provide enough light at the right time.
3. Ferns - a great companion in growing Cattleya
When planting Cattleya, the best option for the main grower is the fern. This plant is rich in fiber, moisture, and a good source of moisture for orchids. Like other orchids, Cattleya is easy to die if it is watered too much, and it is likely that the plant will become infected with fungus and moss.
BUY CATTLEYA ORCHIDS PLANTS:
SOME SPECIES AND HYBRIDS OF CATTLEYA ORCHIDS WITH CARE TIPS AND CULTURE SHEET:
- Cattleya aclandiae - Lady Ackland's Cattleya
- Cattleya acuensis - Acu Cattleya
- Cattleya alaorii - Alaori's Cattleya
- Cattleya amethystoglossa - The Amethyst Lipped Cattleya
- Cattleya araguaiensis - The Araguaia Cattleya
- Cattleya bicolor - Bicolored Cattleya
- Cattleya bradei - Brade's Cattleya
- Cattleya briegeri - Brieger's Cattleya
- Cattleya candida - The Beautiful Cattleya
- Cattleya Cariad's Mini-Quinee - Laeliocattleya Cariad's Mini-Quinee- Cattleya hybrid
- Cattleya cernua - The Nodding Sophronitis
- Cattleya × dolosa - Dolose Cattleya - The Crafty Cattleya - The Deceitful Cattleya
- Cattleya dormaniana - Dorman's Cattleya
- Cattleya dowiana - Dow's Cattleya
- Cattleya elongata - Elongated Stalk Cattleya
- Cattleya forbesii - Forbes' Cattleya
- Cattleya gaskelliana - Gaskell's Cattleya
- Cattleya granulosa - Granulose Cattleya
- Cattleya guttata - The Spotted Cattleya
- Cattleya hardyana - Hardy's Cattleya
- Cattleya harrisoniana - Harrison's Cattleya
- Cattleya iricolor - Rainbow-colored Cattleya
- Cattleya intermedia - The intermediate Cattleya
- Cattleya jenmanii - Jenman's Cattleya
- Cattleya labiata - Crimson Cattleya - Ruby-lipped Cattleya
- Cattleya lawrenceana - Sir Trevor Lawrence's Cattleya
- Cattleya liliputana - The Dwarf Cattleya
- Cattleya loddigesii - Loddiges' Cattleya
- Cattleya lueddemanniana - Lueddemann's Cattleya
- Cattleya luteola - Pale Yellow Cattleya
- Cattleya maxima - The Greatest Cattleya - Christmas Flower
- Cattleya Memoria Robert Strait - Laeliacattleya Memoria Robert Strait - Cattleya hybrid
- Cattleya mendelii - Mendel's Cattleya
- Cattleya mossiae - Mrs. Moss' Cattleya - Easter Cattleya
- Cattleya nobilior - The Noble Cattleya
- Cattleya percivaliana - Percival's Cattleya - Christmas Cattleya
- Cattleya porphyroglossa - Purple Lipped Cattleya
- Cattleya pumila - The Dwarf Cattleya
- Cattleya quadricolor - Beautiful Cattleya
- Cattleya rex - King of the Cattleyas
- Cattleya schilleriana - Consul Schiller's Cattleya
- Cattleya schofieldiana - Schofield's Cattleya
- Cattleya schroederae - Easter orchid
- Cattleya tenebrosa - The Dark Cattleya
- Cattleya tenuis - Slender Stemmed Cattleya
- Cattleya tigrina - Tiger Striped Cattleya
- Cattleya trianae - Dr. Triana's Cattleya - Christmas orchid
- Cattleya velutina - Velvety Cattleya
- Cattleya violacea - Violet Cattleya
- Cattleya walkeriana - Walker's Cattleya
- Cattleya wallisii - Wallis' Cattleya - Cattleya of the Golden Land
- Cattleya warscewiczii - Warscewicz's Cattleya
- Epicatanthe Don Herman - Cattleya hybrid
- Jackfowlieara Appleblossom - Iwanagaara Appleblossom - Cattleya hybrid
- Rhyncattleanthe Burana Beauty - Potinara Burana Beauty - Cattleya hybrid
- Rhyncattleanthe Momilani Rainbow - Brassolaeliocattleya Momilani Rainbow - Cattleya hybrid
excellent Cattleya culture guides and info. Do you plan to post the rest of the Cattleya species? Thanks.
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