Jackfowlieara Appleblossom is a cross between Caulaelia Snowflake (Caularthron bicornutum x Laelia albida) and Rhyncattleanthe Orange Nuggett (Rhyncholaeliocattleya Manu Akaka (Cattleya Triumphans (Cattleya dowiana x Cattleya rex) x Rhyncholaeliocattleya Yellow Hammer (Rhyncholaeliocattleya Mrs. J. Leemann (Rhyncholaelia digbyana x Cattleya dowiana) x Cattleya Orange Blossom (Cattleya Elinor (Cattleya schroderae x Cattleya Coronet (Cattleya cinnabarina x Cattleya harpophylla)) x Cattleya Trimyra (Cattleya Myra (Cattleya trianae x Cattleya crispata) x Cattleya trianae)))) x Rhyncanthe Daffodil).
Jackfowlieara Appleblossom also called as Iwanagaara Appleblossom, is a hybrid in the genus Cattleya. This hybrid was registered by Rod McLellan Company in 1992 (RHS).
IDENTIFY JACKFOWLIEARA APPLEBLOSSOM ORCHID PLANT
Jackfowlieara Appleblossom is a cross between Caulaelia Snowflake (Caularthron bicornutum x Laelia albida) and Rhyncattleanthe Orange Nuggett (Rhyncholaeliocattleya Manu Akaka (Cattleya Triumphans (Cattleya dowiana x Cattleya rex) x Rhyncholaeliocattleya Yellow Hammer (Rhyncholaeliocattleya Mrs. J. Leemann (Rhyncholaelia digbyana x Cattleya dowiana) x Cattleya Orange Blossom (Cattleya Elinor (Cattleya schroderae x Cattleya Coronet (Cattleya cinnabarina x Cattleya harpophylla)) x Cattleya Trimyra (Cattleya Myra (Cattleya trianae x Cattleya crispata) x Cattleya trianae)))) x Rhyncanthe Daffodil).
Iwanagaara Appleblossom is a sympodial epiphyte orchid hybrid with elongated-oval shape pseudobulbs which growing rather tightly to each other, reaching up to 15 cm in length, and not more than 3.5 cm wide. The leaves are light green, slightly twisted, measuring 20 cm long and 3 cm wide.
This hybrid can bloom at any time of the year, especially preferring the period from April to May. Peduncles can be both straight and hanging, in length reach up to 20 cm. From 2 to 7 flowers per one peduncle. The color of flowers from white to yellow, often with a pink border, is about 8 cm in diameter. The sepals and petals have a pale pink color, while the lip is broader and can be a more intense pink towards the edge. There are many color varieties available, from white, pale pink, a more pronounce pink and even yellow, so each cultivar can look slightly different. What remains the same is the unmistaken shape of the flower and the dark brown stripes on the throat of the lip.
JACKFOWLIEARA APPLEBLOSSOM ORCHID PLANT CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Jackfowlieara Appleblossom loves bright sun and is able to safely endure the direct morning and evening sun, however, on a hot summer afternoon, this orchid must be protected from direct sunlight: put behind a curtain or in the shade of other plants, otherwise the plant may get sunburn. In winter, it is recommended, in addition to natural lighting, to use artificial light lamps.
Temperature:
Iwanagaara Appleblossom belongs to the warm temperature conditions, and throughout the year the plants are recommended to be kept under the following temperature conditions: day temperature no higher than 33 ° C and night temperature at 14-18 ° C. For successful cultivation at home, it is necessary that the night temperature of the content should always be at least 4 ° C lower than the daily one.
Humidity:
For normal development the plant, the humidity level of 50-70% will be enough. A lower rate of humidity (35–40%) in the hot summer period or during the heating season in winter may adversely affect the overall development of this orchid, causing growth retardation. The higher temperature, the higher the humidity should be, and the higher the humidity, the more often and longer it is necessary to ventilate the room where orchids are contained, otherwise the probability of rotting and leaves of various kinds of fungal diseases.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Jackfowlieara Appleblossom is grown mainly only in pots. It can also be grown less often in hanging lattice baskets or on blocks. The substrate used must be very breathable, therefore it is recommended to use as its: a mixture consisting of 80% bark of conifers, 15% peat and 5% charcoal or a mixture consisting of 60% bark of coniferous trees, 20% moss sphagnum or peat, 20% polystyrene and a little charcoal or a mixture consisting of 40% bark of coniferous trees, 30% sphagnum moss, 20% polystyrene, 10% charcoal with a small addition of peat (this mixture is suitable not only for adult plants, but also for seedlings).
In addition, it is possible to use coconut fiber, transfused, etc. additives. The acidity of the substrate should be between 5.5 and 6.5 pH. Calcium should be added to the substrate at a lower pH, for example, in the form of dolomite flour or crushed seashells, since at lower (or higher) pH orchid roots stop absorbing many minerals useful for plant development.
Repotting and dividing:
Iwanagaara Appleblossom does not require frequent transplantations, therefore, it is desirable to perform this procedure only when it is really necessary. For example, in cases of salinization or compaction of the substrate, its critically high or low pH, or when the plant grows strongly and the old pot becomes cramped.
On average, adult plants are transplanted once every 3-4 years. The best time for transplanting is the period when new, young shoots reach a size of 5 cm and begin to grow their own roots. During transplantation, it is desirable to divide large shrubs into parts, leaving about 3-4 pseudobulbs for each new plant. Old pseudobulbs are not recommended to be removed, since they are still useful to the plant for feeding new, young shoots that do not yet have their own roots.
The substrate only need to cover the root system of the plant to rhizome remained lying on the surface. In view of its specific growth, it is necessary to plant this orchid not in the middle of the pot, but at the side, so that the oldest pseudobulbs are located near any one wall of the pot. In cases where the rhizome has many branches, and new shoots grow in different directions, you can plant this orchid in the middle of the pot.
To prevent root decay, pots for planting should be chosen small, so that the substrate can dry out quickly enough. At the bottom of the pot you need to make as many holes as possible and put a small layer of drainage, as it can be used large pieces of bark, pieces of cork or foam.
Watering:
During the period of new growth, this hybrid needs frequent and abundant watering. When watering, excess water should flow freely from the pot, since stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its pan can very quickly lead to rotting of the roots and the lower part of the plant. The substrate between watering should dry well. In other words, watering an orchid is necessary only when the substrate (in which it grows) is completely dry.
Fertilizer:
During the period of new growth, fertilize this hybrid for every third watering in 1/2 or 1/4 of the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the package. Their roots are quite sensitive to various kinds of potash, phosphorus, etc. salts contained in the fertilizer, and can deteriorate very quickly. The most sensitive place of the root is its tip, when exposed to too concentrated fertilizer, they turn black and dry out. In addition to the usual root dressing, it is also recommended to produce foliar, when the outer part of the plant is sprayed with very diluted fertilizer. It is best to feed the orchid, alternating between these two methods. At the beginning of the growing season (the emergence of new sprouts), it is recommended to use fertilizer with a high nitrogen content, and by the time new sprouts reach 1/2 of their normal size, fertilizer with a high phosphorus content.
Rest period:
The first dormant period begins when the buds is almost visible. At this stage, the plant should be placed in a cool place and significantly reduce its watering (ideally, stop completely). The total temperature of the content can vary from 10 to 17 ° C. With the advent of peduncles, the first dormant period ends: the total temperature of the maintenance rises, and the watering of the orchid is resumed to the usual volume.
If during flowering the new growth did not start (i.e., at the base of the pseudobulb new sprouts did not appear), then immediately after the flowering this orchid go to the second rest period. The conditions of its holding are not as strict as in the first case. Orchids should preferably be kept at a temperature not higher than 18 ° C, and watering should be reduced to a minimum and produces it only when the substrate not only dries completely, but also stays completely dry for about 5 days. The second dormant period ends with the appearance of new sprouts.
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