Cymbidium or boat orchid, is a genus of 52 evergreen species in the orchid family Orchidaceae. The new Latin genus name is derived from the Latin cymba meaning boat. Its first known use was in 1815.
Cymbidium or boat orchid, is a genus of 52 evergreen species in the orchid family Orchidaceae. The new Latin genus name is derived from the Latin cymba meaning boat. Its first known use was in 1815.
IDENTIFY CYMBIDIUM ORCHID - BOAT ORCHID
In terms of morphology, Cymbidiums are herbaceous, perennial, annual branches that form small dusts. There are species that grow on the bark, on the ground; There are species that are rooted in tree bushes, in humus. New roots usually grow only in young plants, the mother tree is difficult to grow new roots but only branches from roots.
Their stem is short, connecting the pseudobulbs together. The bulbs are actually short branches of the base. Old pseudobulbs when separated from the old base, can grow new base, from which grow up the seedlings. Hence, Cymbidium is classified as sympodial.
Pseudobulb is usually rotiform or mango-form, with a diameter of 1 cm to 15 cm, the pseudobulb is usually fresh and wrapped in the leaves.
Leaves usually have two forms: scaly form attached to a segment of the rhizome and real form attached to a pseudobulb. The leaves normally have a petiole, and between the leaf and petiole there is a separating layer. When the leaves fall, there is still a hug for the pseudorabies. Some species have no petiole.
Depending on the species, the leaf blade is very different, the tendon is prominent or immersed in the leaf. Some species have yellowish green leafy leaves, usually dark green. Foliage and leaf thickness vary depending on the species: species that live in more light areas have narrower leaves and are thicker than shade-tolerant species. Leaves are striped, spherical, plate type. Leaf tip is usually divided into 2 lobes. The size of the leaf varies from 0.5 cm to 6 cm. The leaf length varies from 10 cm to 150 cm.
Flower buds often appear under the pseudobulb, in the axillary, split the old shank, stabbed outside. Typically, each pseudocode flowering only once.
HISTORY OF BREEDING OF CYMBIDIUM ORCHID - BOAT
At the beginning of the 19th century, some orchids were collected from rainforests planted in Europe. From these wild varieties, the crosses were made. The goal of these hybrids is to create varieties with high economic value and aesthetic value such as more flowers, large, durable, colorful colors. That is why Cymbidium is not a primitive tree in Europe, but the hybrids cultivated here are very large compared to other continents.
The first Cymbidium hybrids appeared in 1889 as the Cymbidium. Eburne x Cym.lowianum. Over the next 20 years, only 14 more were found, but they were not worth much. In the early years of the 20th century, many species were found in Burma and Indochina, especially in Cambodia. Parishii, Cym. insigne, cym. erythrostylum is a white to pink color that has played an important role in the formation of beautiful crosses.
Cym. hookerianum and Cym. Lowianum has been used to produce blue flowers. Cym. eburneum and Cym. insigne produced the white and pink varieties. Cym. traceyanum yields yellow varieties. Cym. ansonii gives out the red and pink varieties. Cym. Parishii is used to create varieties with red lips like Cymbidium Miretta.
Cymbidium breeders at the beginning of this century, most notably H. G. Alexander, gave birth to the Cym. Alexanderi Westonbirt hybrid (Cym. eburneolowianum x Cym. insigne). This plant has so far held an important position in the creation of new varieties of white, pink, yellow, blue, especially flowers in the fall and winter. At the same time, Cym. Pauwelsii (Cym. insigne x Cym. lowianum), is the first plant to produce large flowering and thriving species such as Cym. Babylon (Cym. Olympus x Cym. Pauwelsii). In turn, Cym. Babylon is a popular genus to create new varieties of vibrant colors.
GROW AND CARE CYMBIDIUM ORCHID - BOAT ORCHID
There are two types of Cymbidium orchid: standard and miniature. Later, the artisans have grafted a novelty variety of grafts from standard and miniature. And Pendulous are mostly transplanted from the Devonianum or the Aloifolium.
Ideal temperature for growing and caring Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
Cymbidium needs temperature change: daytime 80-90 ° F (27-32 ° C) at night 50-60 ° F (10-15 ° C). Cymbidiums can withstand temperatures up to 100 ° F and cold to 30 ° F, as long as they are not frozen. In addition, if there is no minimum daylight / nighttime difference between 15 ° F and 20 ° F (13-16 ° F) C), almost cymbidiums will not flower.
Ideal light for grow and care Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
Cymbidium needs more sunshine, but must cover the net to prevent leaf burn. More light will be easier to flower, more flowers and colors will be more honest, lack of light will make the flowers go pale. It can not be grown indoors or in shady places. Cymbidium does not need fertilizers, if it is full of light, but if there is fertilizer, there will be more flowers. Actually light is the main nutrient for plants, and fertilizer is just a supplement.
Moisture for Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
Cymbidium needs moisture from 40-70%, summer watering should be grounded or sprayed in the morning or afternoon to increase moisture.
Water for Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
Cymbidiums need to be watered once a week, but in the summer they need more watering, can be irrigated 2-3 times depending on the local, should not be water shortage at the growing orchids, when the cymbidium has stopped rising, can reduce watering, but do not let the plant dry up, will make the plant froze, and may not flowering.
Fertilizer for Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
When growing season for seedlings, apply 30-10-10 fertilizer once a week, using only 1/4 of the manufacturer's formula. For example, the formula uses 1 tsp for a gallon of water, then using ¼ tsp for a gallon of water, to avoid the plant from burning the leaves. At the end of August use fertilizer 6-30-30 or 10-52-10, end of November to stop fertilizing, only watering, fertilizing will cause hot flower buds can fall or have disabilities.
Replace the Pots of Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
2-3 years should replace the pot once if planted with pine shells, every 4-5 years if planted with coconut shells. Before repotting or splitting the plants, soak the material in water for several hours, do not use potting soil because it will be prone to root rot. When using coconut shells, soak them thoroughly, when not as bold as tea, it is better to use.
Should not leave the flowers withered all on the branches, if there left about 2-3 flowers its should be cut down and then plug into the vase. If left all flowers withered on the branches the plant will weaken, it will be difficult for flowers next season. After all flowers withered is the best time to replace the pot or to divide the plant, cut 2-3 inches of root from the bottom of the pot, remove old material, cut back bulb and trim dead roots. When separating in many parts, keep at least 3-5 branches, rinse, drain, then put in nylon bag, tie back and then keep its in cool place.
When planted, choose a pot that have enough space for plants growing in 2-3 years, place the old bulb near the edge of the pot, take a place for new growth, take bark or coconut shell and then compressed tightly, irrigate B1 with 1 tablespoon for 1 gallon of water, then put in cool place 2-3 weeks to watering.
PEST CONTROL FOR GROW AND CARE CYMBIDIUM ORCHID
Prevention and treatment of common pests and diseases when growing Cattleya orchids:1. Pests of Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid:
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Scale insects: Brownish aphids. These species often cling to leaves, stems and even on roots to sap resin. More dangerous is that these species will cling to the nodes and sap the resin causing the nodes to die. These species must be regularly prevented from spawning and causing damage to the garden. Prevent by manual treatment, use strong drugs such as Regent, Lannate, polytrin, ... according to the recommended concentration.
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Thrips: Usually found in coconut fiber, bark, bulb or excessive use of organic fertilizers in the form of body such as oil cake, boron, ... can use the type insecticides such as Bassa, confidor, ... use the recommended concentration on the package, should be sprayed 2 times / month.
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Snails: Sloughing young roots and rotting new shoots. Should spray snails-killer when the weather is too humid.
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Red spider mites: a very small insect, no longer than 1/2 mm long, under the magnifying glass visible as a bite, with eight legs, young spiders are yellow, adults turn red. Occurs much in the dry season, less in the rainy season. Lives hide under old leaves into clusters, where the spider lurks, leaves turn into small white spots and then join together to turn black and wither. Red spider grows very fast, when detected they must be eliminated immediately if not the orchid plants will stop growing. Regular and continuous use redmedies should be done to kill both the old and the spawn. The best remedies available on the packaging and the best spraying time are: Commite, Nissorun ... at 8-9 am when sunny.
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Mealy bugs: The body is soft, the outside is covered with a white layer like cotton and gloss. The aphids of this aphid are attracted to ants and are a source of Sacty molds. This fungus does not harm the plants, the leaves where the mushrooms grow do not receive light for photosynthesis. When the aphids suck the orchid, they often produce some toxins that cause the orchid to stop growing, around the mushroom that grows yellow and leaves it wither. Powdered aphids are treated with insecticides but must be mixed with the adhesive to effectively spray.
2. Fungal Infections of Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid
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Black rot disease: Often occurs during rainy season in gardens with high humidity or over watering. This disease usually causes serious damage, especially to the seedlings. This disease usually occurs in the roots and then spreads to the trunk. Initial shoots in young shoots make young shoots rotten and brown, when held in, leave the body easily, soft and full of water. In the first cattleya, the disease usually arises from roots, and then spreads rapidly to the body. Plants will not rot or leave as in Dendrobium Pompadour but they will dry and die right in the pot, the diseased plant will spread quickly to another tree. It is caused by Collectotrichum sp and Phytophthora sp, but mostly by Phytophthora sp. cause. The application of dissolved fertilizers does not stop when irrigating the tree will bind tops and make fungus easily harm. In the rainy season, if fertilizing with high protein content causes disease. Preventive measures: In seedlings are more susceptible to disease, separate the diseased plant and use the vaccine for the remaining plants by spraying or dipping the whole plant into a fungus solution. In large trees, cut off the rotten parts, if rotten, then withdraw the sprout and spray. Fungicides can be used as: Kasumin, TopsinM, CuzateM8, Score, Super Tilt ... according to the recommended concentration on the package.
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Anthracnose: The leaves have rounded reddish brown spots, burned brown and then spread into many concentric circles, eventually dry. Trace size depends on the type of orchid and depending on the environment that the fungus grows, if it rains heavily, the leaves will rot immediately. Caused by Glocosporium sp. and Collectotrichum sp. cause. Diseases usually occur in the rainy season should be prevented before, usually treated by cutting off the infected leaves and spraying drugs such as Mancozep, Dithal, Vicaben, ... according to the recommended level.
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Leaf blight: This disease is more common than anthracnose, which often develops at the same time, which is more severe. At first the disease causes the leaves to dry and turn into light brown, usually starting with a black spot on the leaf, may be from the beginning of the leaf to dry or from the root of the leaf quickly spread and then dry the leaves. This is due to the Phylostica fungus, which usually develops through spores and is released in the air by the wind. Prevention: Spray Score or Super Tilt, spray 5d / time until the plant is out.
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Wilt: Root wilt is a common but equally important disease. It can be said that except Cymbidium does not suffer from this disease and it is a big obstacle for orchid growers. Phytoplankton: The roots are dried up, young plants with this disease are yellowing from the bottom and dead trees. For plants that have grown well, the plants do not die, but the roots are dry and will cause the plants to grow slowly, if the roots are dry, the plants become weaker. Cause: Due to the fungus Selectrotium rolfsii, also known as fungus, these lymphs can survive in very long time, when conditions of moisture and high temperature these lobes grow into hyphae and cause disease. Very quickly, if not treated immediately, can damage the whole garden. Measures for treatment: Can use drugs such as Anvil, Sumi eight, ... spray into the roots, spray 2 times a week when the disease began.
3. Diseases caused by bacteria of Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid:
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Soft rot: Symptoms: From a small dot originated from a bruise on the leaf tips caused by rain drops too strong and spread quickly to brown as boiling water, then rot all shoots. Cause: Erwinia Carotovora bacteria, commonly found in gardens with high humidity, inadequate care and thrive in the rainy season. Often this bacterium invades the plant through wounds or bites from the worm and spreads very vigorously, causing the plant to die after 2-3 days of infection. Preventive treatment: Cut the rotten part and bring the whole plant soaked in Kasumin 5g / lit solution for 15 minutes or use Agrimycin. Stop watering for 2-3 days after spraying. In case of severe illness, take the plant out of the pot and soak in the medicinal water above, then transfer to the new pot. Pots of diseased orchids use a 1:50 formol solution mixed with water and rinsed. Then spray the entire orchid garden to complete the disease completely.
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Brown rot: Symptoms: Cattleya orchid appears dark green spots on the leaves, wound round, spread very quickly. The cells where the lesions turn brown or black, soft and filled with water. If this happens, the lesions will spread to the whole plant very quickly. In Cattleya, the normal sign is found in the leaves and it is difficult to spread to the trunk. Caused by Phytomonas bacteria plus mechanical damage during the rainy season. Measures to prevent: Limit the causes of mechanical damage to plants in the rainy season, keeping the orchid not too moist. Use antibiotics in agriculture as Agrimycin spray the garden and stop irrigation for 2-3 days. You can use 1 gram of Streptomycin + 2 tablets of Tetracylin 500 dissolved in 1.5 liters of water to treat the plant.
4. Diseases caused by viruses of Cymbidium orchid - Boat orchid:
Symptoms of orchid viral infection are often seen as spots of spots, irregular green, blue spots, dark green. Irregular flowers mixed with white streaks, small flowers, short branches. Plants are often barren, not grow. In Cattleya, the virus usually causes white streaks in flowers.
Virus disease is easily spread through the extraction device, through harmful insects.
Treatment: There is no other treatment except to burn off the diseased plant, sterilize the extractor and clean the orchid garden.
P/S: In preventing and treating orchids, it is not always important to use the medicine, but it is more important to have a good hygienic environment, to use appropriate fertilizers to increase disease resistance and proper irrigation to limit the development of disease sources.
HARVESTING AN PRESERVATION OF CYMBIDIUM ORCHID - BOAT - ORCHID
Cymbidium can be potted and can also be cut branches, there are many types of cymbidium orchid suitable for decorating the international market. Cymbidium cut flowers have specific characteristics that need to have the corresponding cutting techniques to bring high efficiency.
Factors affecting longevity of Cymbidium cut flowers:
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Nutrition: To maintain the orchid after cutting is to constantly provide the nutrients necessary for the cut flowers after being cut off the plant. Normally the cut flowers continue to dissolve organic matter but due to increased respiration in transport and storage it is detrimental to longevity, so longevity of cut flowers is short in relation with nutrient accumulation when cutting flowers. The study showed that when the cut flowers were cut from plant have high respiratory frequency then decreased gradually over time, about 6-12 hours to return to stable state, and the stage of aging produces strong respiration. After the cut, the respiration of the orchid increase rapidly because of the cut and the temperature is quite high, so the flowers after cutting should avoid the orchid flowers for a long time at high temperature will benefit for prolonging the life of the flower. Simultaneously the shelf life of cut flowers is closely related to the harvesting period because the respiration frequency of the flowers depends on the stage of development of the flower. The lower the flower's maturity, the higher the respiration frequency, the higher the flower's maturity, the lower the respiration frequency, but the longer flowering on the plant, closer to natural aging, the greater the respiration frequency of the flowers, so it is best to collect flowers well-timed.
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Water: The life span of cut orchids can only be maintained when the water absorbs larger than evaporated. Flowers after harvesting from the plant are cut off, breaking the balance between evaporation and water supply, cut flowers are wilt due to dehydration. In order to keep the color and fullness of the flowers essential, it is important for the flower to sap enough water to keep it stretched. The main cause of orchid after cut is wilting due to flowering influenced to transport water, which is due to physiological causes of cut flowers. Cut flowers are also affected by the environment, especially when the environment is not suitable, which can cause the cuttings to carry many sources of bacteria and other microorganisms invading the plant vein obstruction, greatly affecting the ability of water absorption and transport.
- Growth regulator:
In Cymbidium there are many kinds of growth stimulants and growth inhibitors, which stimulate plant growth-promoting cells such as ethylene to promote ripening and aging.
Ethylenediamine is a kind of early ripening which greatly affects the longevity of flowers. When ethylene is formed to the top or ethylene is used to treat cut flowers, the petals turn brown, wilt, roll, rapid aging speed, shorten the life of cut flowers. When flowers are dehydrated, bacteria invade, increase respiration of the flowers after cutting off the plant and produce more ethylene should speed up the aging. So, in the process of picking flowers to transport, how to eliminate the factors that produce ethylene or neutralize the effect of ethylene is the key to the success of the flower care after when cutting.
- External factors:
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Outdoor conditions: Unsuitable external conditions will be detrimental to the preservation of cut flowers. High temperatures increase water evaporation, increase respiratory rate and produce more ethylene to facilitate the spread of bacteria and microorganisms. Too low temperature makes it easy for flowers to die. In addition, too low moisture will make the plant evaporate quickly, accelerating the aging process of cut flowers.
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Infection of the disease: Flowers after the loss of water supplies and nutrients from the plant, its resistance is significantly reduced. Bacteria and microorganisms that easily enter the flowers clog the circuit, causing loss of water balance. Moreover, the process of preserving the spread of bacteria is very easy to damage the flowers.
The technique of keeping fresh Cymbidium cut flowers:
- Time to cut flowers: The maturity of the flower stems is closely related to the appropriate cutting time. Under normal conditions, professional flower makers cut flowers when nearly half of the flowers were bloomed. If cut too early, flower buds difficult to hatch, the flower also soon withered, and if cut too late, the flower's durability will short, reduce the value of consumption in the market. Cut orchids is best when 2/3 of the flowers of the plant were bloomed and can hold 30 - 45 days in the bottle.
- Sorting and packaging: Cymbidiums after cut should be immediately put into water for storage and classification as required for packaging. Presently, the world has not unified classification of cut orchids but many countries or regions are based on the market and tastes of the place where the classification is appropriate. When sorting, first remove the diseased orchids, get good quality orchids put into storage. Packaging is carried out prior to shipment, when packing the flower stems are plugged into the water tank and fixed in the container. Use paper to protect the flower, surrounding it with paper shredded to avoid collision damage the flower. When transported to the place, cut the cut flowers about 0.5-1 cm cut flowers and plug into the container to preserve. Studies have shown that cut orchids can be stored for 15-20 days at 3 to 5 ° C so that most cut flowers are transported at relatively low temperatures. Where conditions permit, it is possible to transport cut flowers in low pressure or air conditioners to protect flowers and achieve high economic efficiency.
- Preserve fresh flowers with chemicals: The chemicals used to preserve its essential ingredients include sugar (sugar cane, glucose, fruit sugar), acetylen inhibitors, antifungal agents (such as silver nitrate, silver sulphate), antacids, acids (such as citric acid ...) and growth regulator. The pre-treatment solution is usually STS (silver sulphate) with a concentration of 0.25 mml alcohol, the processing time is 1 to 2 hours.
BUY CYMBIDIUM ORCHID - BOAT ORCHID:
SOME SPECIES AND HYBRIDS OF CYMBIDIUM ORCHID WITH CARE TIPS AND CULTURE SHEET:
- Cymbidium acuminatum - The Acuminate Cymbidium
- Cymbidium aliciae - Alicia's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium aloifolium - The aloe-leafed cymbidium
- Cymbidium atropurpureum - The Black Purple Cymbidium
- Cymbidium banaense - The Bana Cymbidium
- Cymbidium bicolor - The Two-Colored Cymbidium
- Cymbidium borneense - The Borneo Cymbidium
- Cymbidium canaliculatum - The Channeled Boat-Lip Orchid
- Cymbidium changningense - The Chang Ning Cymbidium
- Cymbidium chloranthum - The Green Flowered Cymbidium
- Cymbidium cochleare - The Spoon-Shaped Cymbidium
- Cymbidium cyperifolium - The Cyperus-Like Leafed Cymbidium
- Cymbidium dayanum - Day's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium devonianum - Devon's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium eburneum - The Ivory-Colored Cymbidium
- Cymbidium elegans - The Elegant Cymbidium
- Cymbidium elongatum - The Elongate Cymbidium
- Cymbidium ensifolium - The four-season orchid
- Cymbidium erythraeum - The Red-Spotted Lip Cymbidium
- Cymbidium erythrostylum - The Red Column Cymbidium
- Cymbidium faberi - Faber's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium finlaysonianum - Finlayson's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium floribundum - The yellow margin orchid
- Cymbidium gammieanum - Gammie's Cymbidiumm
- Cymbidium goeringii - The noble orchid
- Cymbidium haematodes - The Blood Red Cymbidium
- Cymbidium hookerianum - Hooker's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium insigne - The Splendid Cymbidium
- Cymbidium iridioides - The iris-like cymbidium
- Cymbidium kanran - The Cold Growing Cymbidium
- Cymbidium lancifolium - The Lance-Leafed Cymbidium
- Cymbidium lowianum - Low's boat orchid
- Cymbidium macrorhizon - The Long Rhizome Cymbidium
- Cymbidium madidum - The giant boat-lip orchid
- Cymbidium mastersii - Master's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium omeiense - The Omei-Shan Cymbidium
- Cymbidium qiubeiense - The Qiubei Xian Cymbidium
- Cymbidium rectum - The Erect Cymbidium
- Cymbidium repens - The Repent Cymbidium
- Cymbidium roseum - The Rose-Colored Cymbidium
- Cymbidium schroederi - Schroeder's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium serratum - The Serrate Cymbidium
- Cymbidium Sessa Green Beauty - Cymbidium hybrid
- Cymbidium sichuanicum - The Sichuan Cymbidium
- Cymbidium sinense - The Chinese Cymbidium
- Cymbidium suave - Snake orchid - Grassy boat-lip orchid
- Cymbidium suavissimum - The Softest Cymbidium
- Cymbidium tigrinum - Tiger Striped Cymbidium
- Cymbidium tortisepalum - The Twisted Sepal Cymbidium
- Cymbidium tracyanum - Tracy's Cymbidium
- Cymbidium wenshanense - The Wenshan Cymbidium
- Cymbidium wilsonii - Wilson's Cymbidium
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