Cymbidium madidum - The giant boat-lip orchid is found growing on trees in rainforests, swamps and open forests in high rainfall areas...
Cymbidium madidum also called as The giant boat-lip orchid, Cymbidium albuciflorum, Cymbidium leae, Cymbidium leroyi, Cymbidium madidum var. leroyi, Cymbidium queeneanum, is a species of the genus Cymbidium. This species was described by John Lindley in 1840.
IDENTIFY CYMBIDIUM MADIDUM - THE GIANT BOAT-LIP ORCHID
Cymbidium madidum is native to New South Wales, Queensland. It is found
growing in rainforests, swamps and open forests in high rainfall areas where
it grows on trees with thick fibrous bark, particularly paperbarks. It can
also be found growing on rocks, boulders and cliff faces, and as a terrestrial
orchid, in the sandy soils of littoral rainforest at elevations of 0 - 1300
meters above sea level.
It is a large to giant sized, hot to cool growing epiphyte or terrestrial forming large bulky clumps with crowded, erect, ovoid, 12-25 cm x 4-6 cm, green, turgid pseudobulbs. The leaves are 4-8, erect to arching, scattered along pseudobulb, sessile, 30-90 cm x 3-4 cm, dark green, thin-textured, pliable, apex acute.
The giant boat-lip orchid blooms in late winter through summer from the axillary raceme, arching to pendulous, 20-60 cm long, 12–70-flowered inflorescence that arising from base of pseudobulb. The flowers are 2-3 cm in diameter, faintly fragrant, fleshy; sepals and lateral petals usually olive green; labellum lacking keels, with a shallow, viscid depression from the base to the base of the midlobe, yellow with a conspicuous red-brown stripe on the disc.
CYMBIDIUM MADIDUM - THE GIANT BOAT-LIP ORCHID CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Cymbidium madidum needs light level of 15000 - 25000 lux (shade to bright light). The light should be filtered or dispersed, and the plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight in the afternoon hours. Strong air movement should be ensured all the time.
Watch the color of the leaves; foliage should be yellowish-green in color, but too much light will result in a pale yellow color and if burned, a black spot at the arch of the leaf. If severely burned, the leaf will be bleached white. If too shady, plants will be dark, lush green but will bloom less or not at all.
Temperature:
The giant boat-lip orchid needs day temperatures of 25-28°C and night temperatures of 15-18°C. It is very important for initiation of spikes to have a difference in temperatures between night and day. This can be achieved in the summer by sprinkling the leaves in the late afternoon or early evening for evaporative cooling.
Humidity:
Cymbidium madidum needs the humidity levels of 40 - 60% most of the time, however they can tolerate humidity levels of 60 - 80% in times of high light which will help to also reduce temperature levels. Humidity should also be reduced to 40 - 60% at flowering.
Good air circulation is essential for good plant growth, supplying oxygen and carbon dioxide and promoting the quick drying off of leaves thus preventing fungal, bacterial and red spider problems. The air surrounding the plant must be moist. Bad ventilation causes poor growth and immature buds to yellow and drop off.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
The giant boat-lip orchid are usually grown in pots or containers with excellent drainage, filled with loose, quickly drying substrate, so that the plants can be watered frequently and the substrate is kept dry. Most growers use a mixture based on tree fern bark or chopped fibers. Different amounts of chopped sphagnum moss, osmunda fern roots, sand, perlite, charcoal and fibrous clay are also usually added; many growers use fine to medium bark without additives. Medium granulation bark in the lower half of the pot and in the upper part, fine bark with the addition of about 10% perlite and 10% charcoal works perfectly well.
The plant should be repotted only if the pot is overcrowded which happens on average every two or three years or when the medium has broken down, for the plant thrive best when left undisturbed. Repotting should be carried out during spring (after flowering). During repotting dead or withered roots should be removed. Older roots should be trimmed up to 10-15 cm from the base of the bulbs; Leave the root tissue to air dry. Always sterilize cutting tools between plants.
If you decide to divide the plant, look for natural divisions which allow three to five-bulb groupings. If the dormant bulbs (back bulbs) can be removed without destroying the strength of the division, remove them. These can be potted up to resprout and bloom in two to four years.
Watering:
Cymbidium madidum should be watered abundantly during active growth, but there should be excellent drainage and the substrate around the roots should never be soggy or stale. Water more frequently in periods of dry heat and winds and less in cold, wet weather. When the new growths reach maturity in autumn, the amount of water should be gradually reduced.
The plant love overhead watering during summer and early autumn, but never in the middle of the day on hot days or the leaves will burn and you may cause rot. It is best to overhead water late in the afternoon or early evening when the sun has gone from the plants. Such watering washes dust and dirt from the leaves and allows the plant to take in moisture through the leaves. Do not overhead water or mist in cold or wet winter weather. Water early in the morning in winter so plants can dry out. In winter it is better to under rather than over water.
Fertilizer:
When the plants are actively growing, from September through to mid December, they must have an NPK fertiliser high in nitrogen to stimulate growth. From mid December, when flower spikes initiate, flowering should be encouraged by the use of a fertiliser high in phosphorous and potash. These assist in the formation of flower spikes, ensuring that the flowers will be bigger and stronger and firm up the leaves thus avoiding soft growth. Fortnightly fertilizing using half recommended strength is advisable. You may prefer to fertilize at quarter strength every week. It is important to always give the plants a good watering before fertilizing, otherwise the roots will burn.
To avoid mineral deposits building up during periods of heavy fertilization, it is advisable to rinse the containers approximately every month. Rinsing is especially important where the water is highly mineralized. First, water the plant normally to dissolve the accumulated salts, and after about an hour, rinse the substrate with water equal to twice the volume of the container.
Rest period:
The giant boat-lip orchid should be limited in the amount of water during 2-3 winter months. They should dry up a bit between waterings, but they must not be left without water for too long. Fertilization should be reduced or eliminated until new growths appear in spring, at which point regular watering resumes.
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