Cymbidium faberi - Faber's Cymbidium is found growing in damp but well-drained slopes, open shrubby places at elevations of 700-3000 m...
Cymbidium faberi also called as Faber's Cymbidium, Cymbidium cerinum, Cymbidium oiwakense, Cymbidium scabroserrulatum, Eulophia yunnanensis, Semiphajus evrardii, is a species of the genus Cymbidium. This species was described by Robert Allen Rolfe in 1896.
IDENTIFY CYMBIDIUM FABERI - FABER'S CYMBIDIUM
Cymbidium faberi is native to China North-Central, China South-Central, China Southeast, East Himalaya, Nepal, Taiwan, Tibet. It is found growing in damp but well-drained slopes, open shrubby places at elevations of 700-3000 meters above sea level.
It is a small to large sized, warm to cold growing terrestrial with inconspicuous pseudobulbs. The leaves are 4-8, suberect, 25-80 × 0.7-1.2 cm, with transparent veins, conduplicate at base, not articulate, margin sharply serrate.
Faber's Cymbidium blooms in the spring from the suberect or slightly curved, 35-80 cm long inflorescence with 5-11 or more flowered rachis. The flowers are usually very fragrant; sepals and petals pale yellowish green; lip pale yellowish green with purplish red patches.
CYMBIDIUM FABERI - FABER'S CYMBIDIUM CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Cymbidium faberi needs the light level of 1000 to 5000 lux. The light should be filtered or dispersed, and the plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight in the afternoon hours. Strong air movement should be ensured all the time.
Watch the color of the leaves; foliage should be yellowish-green in color, but too much light will result in a pale yellow color and if burned, a black spot at the arch of the leaf. If severely burned, the leaf will be bleached white. If too shady, plants will be dark, lush green but will bloom less or not at all.
Temperature:
Faber's Cymbidium needs day temperatures of 18-24°C and night temperatures of 7-13°C. For flower initiation, a cooling period needs to occur and lasts for 2-4 months during the late summer and early fall. Once flower spikes appear, flowers become susceptible to temperature again and too higher temperatures can cause flower abortions.
The plant will tolerate a few degrees of frost, but temperatures of -3°C and below cause damage to the inflorescences. In parts of the country where the weather in winter is extreme, grow the plants outside during spring and summer, and then move them indoors as late as possible at the first threat of frost.
Humidity:
Cymbidium faberi needs the humidity levels of 40 - 60% most of the time, however they can tolerate humidity levels of 60 - 80% in times of high light which will help to also reduce temperature levels. Humidity should also be reduced to 40 - 60% at flowering.
Good air circulation is essential for good plant growth, supplying oxygen and carbon dioxide and promoting the quick drying off of leaves thus preventing fungal, bacterial and red spider problems. The air surrounding the plant must be moist. Bad ventilation causes poor growth and immature buds to yellow and drop off.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Faber's Cymbidium are usually grown in pots or containers with excellent drainage, filled with loose, quickly drying substrate, so that the plants can be watered frequently and the substrate is kept dry. Most growers use a mixture based on tree fern bark or chopped fibers. Different amounts of chopped sphagnum moss, osmunda fern roots, sand, perlite, charcoal and fibrous clay are also usually added; many growers use fine to medium bark without additives. Medium granulation bark in the lower half of the pot and in the upper part, fine bark with the addition of about 10% perlite and 10% charcoal works perfectly well.
The plant should be repotted only if the pot is overcrowded which happens on average every two or three years or when the medium has broken down, for the plant thrive best when left undisturbed. Repotting should be carried out during spring (after flowering). During repotting dead or withered roots should be removed. Older roots should be trimmed up to 10-15 cm from the base of the bulbs; Leave the root tissue to air dry. Always sterilize cutting tools between plants.
If you decide to divide the plant, look for natural divisions which allow three to five-bulb groupings. If the dormant bulbs (back bulbs) can be removed without destroying the strength of the division, remove them. These can be potted up to resprout and bloom in two to four years.
Watering:
Cymbidium faberi should be watered abundantly during active growth, but there should be excellent drainage and the substrate around the roots should never be soggy or stale. Water more frequently in periods of dry heat and winds and less in cold, wet weather. When the new growths reach maturity in autumn, the amount of water should be gradually reduced.
The plant love overhead watering during summer and early autumn, but never in the middle of the day on hot days or the leaves will burn and you may cause rot. It is best to overhead water late in the afternoon or early evening when the sun has gone from the plants. Such watering washes dust and dirt from the leaves and allows the plant to take in moisture through the leaves. Do not overhead water or mist in cold or wet winter weather. Water early in the morning in winter so plants can dry out. In winter it is better to under rather than over water.
Fertilizer:
When the plants are actively growing, from September through to mid December, they must have an NPK fertiliser high in nitrogen to stimulate growth. From mid December, when flower spikes initiate, flowering should be encouraged by the use of a fertiliser high in phosphorous and potash. These assist in the formation of flower spikes, ensuring that the flowers will be bigger and stronger and firm up the leaves thus avoiding soft growth. Fortnightly fertilizing using half recommended strength is advisable. You may prefer to fertilize at quarter strength every week. It is important to always give the plants a good watering before fertilizing, otherwise the roots will burn.
To avoid mineral deposits building up during periods of heavy fertilization, it is advisable to rinse the containers approximately every month. Rinsing is especially important where the water is highly mineralized. First, water the plant normally to dissolve the accumulated salts, and after about an hour, rinse the substrate with water equal to twice the volume of the container.
Rest period:
Faber's Cymbidium should be limited in the amount of water during 2-3 winter months. They should dry up a bit between waterings, but they must not be left without water for too long. Fertilization should be reduced or eliminated until new growths appear in spring, at which point regular watering resumes.
With high temperature and illumination, the plant may not enter dormancy and produce many new growths on immature forming growth. This would be considered to be a major problem and the whole production can be set back by as much as 2 years.
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