Heuchera - Coral bells - Alumroot care and culture

Heuchera - Coral bells - Alumroot is native to North America. There are about 55 species inhabiting woodlands, prairies, and mountainous regions.

Heuchera, also called as Coral bells, Alumroot, is a genus in the Saxifragaceae family. This genus was described by Carl Linnaeus and was named after Johann Heinrich von Heucher, an 18th century German physician and professor of medicine.

IDENTIFY HEUCHERA - CORAL BELLS - ALUMROOT

Heuchera is native to North America. There are about 55 species inhabiting woodlands, prairies, and mountainous regions. Only a handful of species represent the majority of Heuchera in cultivation today. In fact, the genetic background of many garden hybrids is attributed to three species in particular, H. americana, H. micrantha and H. sanguinea. Most coral bells are hardy in Zones 4-9.

Heuchera - Coral bells - Alumroot care and culture

Coral bells are herbaceous, evergreen perennials with generally spreading habits. Rosettes of leaves grow from stout woody crowns with fibrous roots. Leaves are maple to heart-shaped with lobed, wavy or entire margins. Much of the excitement surrounding coral bells today is due to the developments in foliage colors and patterns-purple, ruby, bronze and amber colors, as well as patterns with prominent or colorful veins, mottling and streaks. The bell-shaped flowers come in shades of red, pink, coral and pure to greenish white. The small, delicate blossoms appear in late spring clustered on wiry stems above the foliage.

Alumroot are used as accents or in groups in perennial borders, rock gardens and woodland gardens. They can be grown with other foliage plants that contrast or complement their leaf color; for example, Japanese painted ferns (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) or spotted dead nettles (Lamium maculatum) are good companions with purple-leaved cultivars. Coral bells mix well with tulips and daffodils, as well as hostas, ferns and other woodland perennials. The dusky purple flowers of Persian fritillary (Fritillaria persica) nicely complement the bronze-purple leaves of ‘Palace Purple’ and its kin.

HEUCHERA - CORAL BELLS - ALUMROOT CARE AND CULTURE

Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

Heuchera do well in part sun, but stay away from hot afternoon rays - foliage will often fade, wilt, or scorch under intense sunlight. Instead, provide shade during the hottest times of the day, or plant where your plant will get consistent full or filtered shade.

Southern gardeners should plant in an area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade while Northern gardeners may plant in an area with more direct sun. Borders, perimeters, and walkways and patio containers are a great location.

Temperature:

Coral bells can be grow in USDA Hardiness zone 4-9. A 50˚F to 55˚F nighttime air temperature and a 60˚F to 65˚F daytime air temperature are ideal. Root temperature is also very important for success with 55˚F to 60˚F being ideal. When nights stay above 40 °F, place your plants outside and leave them there. They can withstand winter temperatures to minus 25 °F when planted in the garden. In containers they can withstand about minus 5 °F.

Substrate and growing media:

Alumroot require well-drained soil. If you’ve had problems with these plants in the past, most likely you’ve tried to plant them in soil that’s too wet or full of clay. To solve that, plant in raised beds, on a berm, or in containers. Even mounding the soil slightly where you plant them will help. A premium organic planting compost will provide excellent drainage with enough moisture.

Ideal garden soil is easy to dig in and drains well while still holding the nutrients and water vital to plant growth. To prepare a bed for in-ground planting, spade or till the soil to a depth of roughly 12-18 inches. Next, spread a 2-4 inch layer of organic matter such as compost, shredded leaves or peat moss over the soil and mix well.

Keep the area around your plants free of weeds. Weeds compete with surrounding plants for food, water and light. Walk around the garden periodically and pull weeds, including the roots, as soon as you see them.

Watering:

You should not allow the soil or the original root ball to completely dry out. During the first summer, you may need to water as often as every few days in periods of drought and extreme summer heat. To determine if your plant needs water, dig a few inches into the soil next to the plant. If the soil is dry 2-3 inches below the surface, it is time to water.

Overwatering can be as damaging as under watering. Be sure that the area surrounding your plant has adequate drainage to move water away from the plant. If you choose to plant in a container, always select one with drainage holes to prevent your plant's roots from sitting in water.

Fertilizer:

Fertilize your plants once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Discontinue feeding after September 1st so your plants can harden off for winter dormancy. Resume fertilizing when new growth appears in spring.

Pruning and mulching:

Clip off any dead, damaged or unsightly growth as needed to maintain an attractive appearance. In late fall or early spring, cut each plant back to a few inches above the ground. New growth will emerge as spring temperatures rise.

When flowers fade, they can be spun off with a flick of the wrist. If stems get too long they can be cut off with the resulting stub re-sprouting and the piece in your hand replanted to form a new plant. This helps keep your plant compact.

Apply a 2-4 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw or other organic matter around your plants to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures and discourage weed growth. Replenish the mulch as needed.

Winter period:

Heuchera is winter hardy, but will benefit from mulching in very cold areas. The time to winterize your plants is in late fall. When winterizing perennials, keep in mind that the root system is the most vulnerable to cold damage. Mulch heavily by mounding a 6-8 inch layer of shredded bark, compost, leaves, straw or other organic material over the crown of each plant.

Watering thoroughly in late fall will greatly enhance your plant's cold tolerance once the ground has frozen.

In very cold areas, containerized plants can be brought into an unheated, protected area such as a garage or cellar before temperatures drop below freezing. Check soil moisture every 2-3 weeks and water as needed during winter.

In spring, remove mulch from in-ground plantings. Containerized plants should be moved back out into the garden sunlight where they will begin to repeat their yearly garden performance.

Pests and diseases:

Coral bells have relatively few pests but they do have one nemesis: strawberry or black vine weevil. If you have had plants whose tops “fall off” in the spring, they are being eaten underground by these little monsters. These are creamy-white c-shaped grubs. You must fight with a twofold attack; the brown or black adults are out in late May to early June (watch for munched leaves) and can be sprayed with Bonide Systemic Insect Control. DO spray at night as that’s when they come to play (and eat). In fall, beneficial nematodes like NemaGlobe can be sprayed over the soil around the plants. Remember to water before and after the application to get these critters in the soil. Each adult can lay 300 eggs, so control is highly advised. Organic gardeners who experience the tops of plants falling off (from weevil damage) can pour hot water on the ground to kill existing larvae.

There are two diseases you might see on the plant: mildew and rust. Mildew tends only to attack varieties of Heuchera sanguinea. Organic controls such as baking soda in water can provide some prevention. Mancozeb can be applied as both a preventative and a remedy. Rust can be a severe problem if the plants are moist and the temperature is in the 45º -50ºF range. Plants will appear dark-spotted from above and when a leaf is turned over, orange patches are evident. While rust won’t kill a plant, it is quite ugly and contagious. Preventative measures include clean, dry facilities (for growers) and copper-based sprays as used on fruit trees. Mancozeb, Cleary’s or Daconil can also prevent an attack and provide long-term control. Yellow-leaved heuchera seem most susceptible. Once a plant has been attacked, remove the affected leaves and apply one of the above sprays. Clean equipment with alcohol after use.

Propagation:

While most are initially propagated by tissue-culture, the plants can be divided by a sharp shovel in early spring when the soil has thawed. The plants should be divided once every 3-5 years. A two-year-old plant can easily be divided into 6 plants. In early spring or fall, begin by digging up a mature clump. Cut the plant with a shovel or other sharp tool, making sure each division has plenty of roots. Plant the divisions back in the garden and water well. Foliage may have to be removed if any wilting is observed.

The plants can also grow from seeds. The seeds must be sown on top of the medium to germinate. Thoroughly moisten sterile seed-starting mix and then fill your seed tray to the top. Soil can be gently tamped. Seed must be sowed sparingly. Otherwise the mat of dense seedlings will be nearly impossible to pull apart. Germination usually begins after 8 to 14 days in soil that is at a temperature of 70º-72ºF. Once the tiny plants have 3-4 true leaves, they can be transplanted to cell packs or a soil flat to grow on. When plants are 3” across, they can be transferred to pots or the garden and watered gently. If they are being moved into full sun, it must be done gradually over a week’s time or they will burn badly.

Leaf cuttings is another method for propagation. Take healthy mature leaves with a short segment of the petiole; dip in rooting powder, place in sterile media (mixture of peat moss and perlite), and use a clear polyethylene cover to keep the humidly high.

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Heuchera - Coral bells - Alumroot care and culture

IDENTIFY HEUCHERA - CORAL BELLS - ALUMROOT