Phalaenopsis Mini Mark is an orchid hybrid, the parents of which are the primary hybrid Phalaenopsis Micro Nova (Phalaenopsis maculata x Phalaenopsis parishii) and the natural species Phalaenopsis philippinensis...
Phalaenopsis Mini Mark is an orchid hybrid, the parents of which are the primary hybrid Phalaenopsis Micro Nova (Phalaenopsis maculata x Phalaenopsis parishii) and the natural species Phalaenopsis philippinensis.
IDENTIFY PHALAENOPSIS MINI MARK ORCHID HYBRID
It is a hybrid of the genus Phalaenopsis with medium green, about 10-15 cm in length leaves. This hybrid can bloom at any time of the year, however, prefers the period from early November to early March. Duration of flowering more than 3 months. The flowers are white in light orange, yellow or pink specks, 3-4 cm in diameter. The lip is orange-brown.
PHALAENOPSIS MINI MARK ORCHID HYBRID CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Phalaenopsis Mini Mark can be grown both in bright diffused light and in partial shade. As a place of habitation any windows will approach. However, in the hot summer period, on windows of southern orientation at noon and on the western windows in the afternoon, the orchid should be protected from direct sunlight: put behind a curtain or into the shade of other plants, otherwise the orchid leaves can easily be burned. Depending on the intensity of exposure to direct sunlight, different degrees of burns are distinguished. At the initial stage on the leaves of orchids appear lighter (often white) areas , with a stronger burn - spots dry, depressed, often black, with a white dented middle, however, there may be another manifestation.
Temperature:
This hybrid belongs to a warm temperature regime, and throughout the year the orchid is grown at a temperature of 18 to 30-32 ° C (ideally 18-21 ° C). For the successful cultivation at home, it is necessary that the night temperature of the content is always 3-4 ° C lower than the daytime temperature.
Humidity:
This hybrid needs the humidity level of 50-70%. At lower humidity, its react differently: most often their growth slows down, flower stalks freeze, and before the time fall flowers and buds that have not yet opened, so at a temperature of more than 25 ° C the humidity must be increased.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Phalaenopsis Mini Mark can be grow both in the substrate and without it, placed on blocks. As a substratum, you can use pure sphagnum moss or a mixture of bark of coniferous trees with moss sphagnum and a small amount of small pieces of charcoal, which is very useful for the root system of the plant and prevents the development of rot.
Repotting is necessary at least every 2-3 years, as from frequent irrigation and fertilizer the core quickly decomposes, and the substrate loses its breathability. From lack of air, the roots die, and the orchid can no longer receive the necessary amount of moisture. The best time for transplant is the period immediately after flowering. It is highly recommended not to transplant when the orchid is preparing for flowering, as this can lead to a slowing of the development of peduncles and the dropping of buds that have not yet opened. Pots for transplantation should be chosen plastic, as the clay has the property of absorbing moisture, which makes it difficult to water orchids. It is recommended for beginners to use transparent pots, as this helps to control the condition of the root system and prevent overflow of plants.
Watering:
Throughout the year, this orchid needs frequent and abundant watering. Excess water during watering should flow freely out of the pot, as the stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its pan can very quickly lead to decay of the roots and the lower part of the plant. Roots are filled with water, become brown, slimy and is no longer able to transport water to the plant normally, and without water the leaves become flabby and the plant slowly dies. The substrate between waterings should dry well. However, it is necessary to remember here that the top layer of the substrate dries much faster than the lower one, therefore, before watering it is strongly recommended to thoroughly inspect the state of the roots through the transparent walls of the pot or slightly pick up the substrate and check with your finger. Dry roots of orchids are usually silvery. Without fail, after each watering, the accumulation of water in the sinuses between the leaves must be removed with the help of paper handkerchiefs or napkins. This especially applies to the core of the plant, since it can very quickly rot away from the stagnation of water in this place.
Spraying is recommended only in hot summer and only in the morning. This will increase the humidity of the air around the plant and help it better survive the forced heat.
Fertilizer:
Throughout the year, this hybrid is fertilized every 2 weeks in 1/4 or 1/6 of the fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. Too concentrated fertilizer adversely affects the roots of the orchid, they blacken and dry up. Soak orchids can not only absorb the mineral matter, but also through the pores of the leaves, so in addition to the traditional root dressing, it is also recommended to fertilize the orchid and through the leaves. For these purposes, a highly diluted fertilizer is taken and the external part of the plant is sprayed. Both of these methods should be alternated.
Rest period:
Phalaenopsis Mini Mark does not need a period of rest to stimulate flowering. However, if the orchid grows well (i.e., at least 2-3 new leaves grow in a year), but for a long time (more than a year) it does not blossom, you can try to hold it at 16 ° C, and in two weeks it will be a flower spike appears. However, here it is necessary to remember that this is an emergency measure and it is not suitable for the constant reduction of the plant to flowering. The refusal of flowering (with a good development of the green mass of the plant) always lies in suboptimal conditions of maintenance, most often as a result of the absence of fluctuations between night and day temperatures or in case of insufficient illumination. The conditions for keeping orchids need to be optimized, otherwise the plant will degenerate, i.e. weaken, melt, etc.
Wow, I have never liked Phalaenopsis Orchids but this is a real beauty. I have Vandas Cattleyas Dendrobiums and a few other but I sure would buy one of those.
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