Dendrobium Himezakura is a hybrid whose parents are Dendrobium Oberon and Dendrobium Cassiope. It was created in 1991, and registered 4 years later in 1995, is currently the most common hybrid made on the basis of the natural Dendrobium nobile.
Dendrobium Himezakura is a hybrid whose parents are Dendrobium Oberon and Dendrobium Cassiope (Dendrobium nobile 49% + Dendrobium moniliforme 25% + Dendrobium heterocarpum 9% + Dendrobium findleyanum 8%). It was created in 1991 by J.Yamamoto, and registered 4 years later in 1995, is currently the most common hybrid made on the basis of the natural Dendrobium nobile.
IDENTIFY DENDROBIUM HIMEZAKURA ORCHID PLANT
Dendrobium Himezakura has thin and long, broken into segments, grow quite tightly to each other, reach 40-45 cm in length, and not more than 2 cm in width pseudobulbs. The length of the pseudobulb depends on the intensity of illumination, the shorter the sun is. The leaves are lanceolate, measuring 7.5-8 cm long and 3-3.5 cm wide, keeping no more than 2-3 years.
This hybrid can potentially bloom at any time of the year, two or more times a year. Peduncles appear from internodes and carry from 3 to 5 flowers. The flowers at the base are white with a small amount of soft pink or purple on the tepals and the lip of the lip, measuring about 4-6 cm in diameter, often with a purple spot inside the lip. The duration of flowering of each individual flower for about 30 days, during the summer heat, the flowering period can be significantly reduced.
Depending on the color of the flower there are some varieties: Dendrobium Himezakura 'Fujikko' - flowers pale pink with a white-green lip; Dendrobium Himezakura 'Sanock' - white flowers with a dark purple spot inside the lips; Dendrobium Himezakura 'Sanokku' - flowers are white with a small amount of pale pink on the tips of tepals and a purple spot inside the lip.
DENDROBIUM HIMEZAKURA ORCHID PLANT CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
In comparison with all other hybrids of Dendrobium type nobile, Dendrobium Himezakura is considered the least light-loving. The plant can be grown on the southern, western and eastern windows, a significant difference will be only in the number of new shoots obtained per year, the frequency of flowering and the behavior in the winter. In the hot summer period, a slight yellowing of the leaves and pseudobulb in bright direct sun is possible, however, as a rule, it does not reach full burns.
Temperature:
It is possible to contain Dendrobium Himezakura at any temperatures ranging from 0-3 ° C to 40-42 ° C, however, the ideal temperature of the content is the range from 16 ° C to 24 ° C, in such conditions this orchid will very well increase the green mass and bloom at the end of the formation of new pseudobulb.
Humidity:
This orchid need the high humidity level of about 60-80% with a decrease to 40-50% in winter. Remember that when caring orchids in conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room where the plants are kept, as moist, stale air is an ideal medium for mass reproduction of various types of fungal and bacterial diseases.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Due to its fairly large size and directly growing pseudobulbs, Dendrobium Himezakura is grown mainly in pots. Anything can be used as a substrate, from pure bark to pure sphagnum moss. It is advisable to choose a pot for planting an orchid according to the size of the root system, so that it would freely enter it and leave 1-2 spaces on the sides.
It is no need for frequent transplantations, therefore, it is desirable to transplant this orchid only when it is really necessary, for example, in cases of severe salinity (and when irrigating with ordinary tap water, 2-3 years is enough) or compaction of the substrate, with its critically high or low pH (the norm is from 5.5 to 6.5) or when the plant grows very strongly and the pot becomes cramped to it (pseudobulbs begin to hang from the edges of the pot). The best time for transplanting is the period when new orchid sprouts reach a size of about 5 cm and begin to grow their own roots.
Watering:
The frequency and abundance of irrigation this species depends on the intensity of illumination and the total temperature of the content, the higher they are, the more often and more need to water. The bright sun provokes the growth of new cells, so the need for water increases, and vice versa, a decrease in the illumination intensity slows down the metabolism, and the absorption of water by the roots of orchids decreases significantly, and in very poor lighting conditions, for example, in winter, it can stop completely. The substrate between waterings should be dry, but not completely dry for long period.
Fertilizer:
During the period of active growth fertilize this type of orchid for every third watering in 1/2 of the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the package. In addition to the usual root dressing, it is also possible to produce foliar, when the outer part of the plant (leaves) is sprayed with a very strongly diluted fertilizer. It is best to feed the orchid, alternating between these two methods. The best fertilizer is fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal shares, for example, NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you do not have such a fertilizer, then at the beginning of the growing season (the emergence of new sprouts) feed the orchid with a higher nitrogen content, and when the sprout reaches 1/2 of its normal growth, fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content.
Rest period:
Dendrobium Himezakura does not need any period of rest: neither to stimulate flowering nor in the winter period. However, if this plant has problem with flowering, in winter you can keep the plant in a cooler place, ideally at 10-16 ° C, with the reduce of the amount of water and fertilizer and the light level should be keep at 7000-8000 lux.
After flowering, the peduncles of the plants are removed, if necessary, the orchid is transplanted and for some time kept completely dry. This is necessary to acclimatize the plant and to prevent wound rotting on the roots resulting from the transplant.
COMMENTS