Phalaenopsis thailandica - The Thailand Phalaenopsis is found growing on trees in lowland forests at elevations of 0 - 1000 meters above sea level...
Phalaenopsis thailandica also called as The Thailand Phalaenopsis, Phalaenopsis thailandica f. aurea, is a species of the genus Phalaenopsis. This species was described by Olaf Rainer Gruss and Jürgen Roeth in 2009.
IDENTIFY PHALAENOPSIS THAILANDICA - THE THAILAND PHALAENOPSIS
Phalaenopsis thailandica is native to Thailand. It is found growing on
trees in lowland forests at elevations of 0 - 1000 meters above sea level.
It is a miniature sized, hot to warm growing epiphyte which reaching no more than 5 cm in height with short stems that are completely covered by the interweaving of the base of the leaves and fleshy, flexible, glabrous, 15 to 25 cm long roots. The leaves are 2-6, 3 to 8 cm in length, oval or oblanceolate, with slightly bilobed apex, fleshy, weakly keeled, acute or obtuse, greyish-green or silvery in color, frequently deciduous during rest in their natural habitat.
The Thailand Phalaenopsis blooms in late winter and early spring from the erect to up to 5, arcuate, branched, to 12 cm long, simultaneously to 20 flowered inflorescence. The flowers are 1.5-2 cm in diameter, slightly fragrant, white with a suffusion of green at the apical area of the sepals and petals. Base of the column yellow. Lateral lobes white with the brown apex barred with yellow. Midlobe white with two bright yellow spots.
PHALAENOPSIS THAILANDICA - THE THAILAND PHALAENOPSIS CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Phalaenopsis thailandica needs the light level of 10000-15000 lux for winter and 8000-12000 lux in summer (70 to 85 percent shade). Watch the color of the leaves; foliage should be yellow-green not dark green. Dark green leaves or the new leaf growing longer and narrower than the old leaf indicates the light is too low. Too much light causes white, dried, burned areas on the leaf, and will have short flower spike. Inadequate light results in succulent, floppy, dark green foliage with no flowers.
The plant can grow easily in a bright window, with little or no sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Four fluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length.
Temperature:
The Thailand Phalaenopsis needs the daytime temperature of 28-30 ° C, and 21 ° C at night, with a daily difference of 7-8 ° C in summer. In winter the average temperature is 28-29 ° C, but the nights are cooler, 19-21 ° C, which increases the daily difference to 10-11 ° C. A temperature of 19°C is particularly necessary in the event that the induction of buds needs to be enhanced in conditions of inadequate light or high daytime temperatures.
The consequently temperatures lower than 15°C and 32°C and above should be avoided. The plant tend to stop growing and therefore it is necessary to take steps to reduce the temperature by improving ventilation or misting the floor etc. Continued periods of exposure to the temperature below 10 ° C or a rapid drop in temperature can cause chilling injury which ultimately results yellow sunken spots on the leaves. Further, cooler temperature (below recommendation) slows down growth and cause bud falling before blooming.
Humidity:
Phalaenopsis thailandica needs the humidity levels of 50 - 80%. At sufficient humidity, plants grow lushly and leave looks healthy. Insufficient humidity cause stunting of plant, accelerate premature falling of buds, dehydrated and shriveled leaves, papery texture of flower edges. You can use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots. Misting can also help in increasing humidity for limited period, but it causes leaf spot diseases if there is not good air circulation.
Good air circulation is essential for good plant growth, supplying oxygen and carbon dioxide and promoting the quick drying off of leaves thus preventing fungal, bacterial and red spider problems. The air surrounding the plant must be moist. Bad ventilation causes poor growth and immature buds to yellow and drop off. Ceiling and oscillating fans are effective for providing gentle air flow in hobby greenhouse or indoor growing area. Both can cover large areas with a constantly changing air flow pattern without excessive drying the plants.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
The Thailand Phalaenopsis are usually grown in plastic or clay pot with a mixture of 12-16 mm of bark as substrate. Small pieces of limestone can be added to the substrate. 25-30% of the media should be charcoal or tile pieces to ensure adequate drainage. You can use the growing media consist of 4 part coconut husk, 1 part medium charcoal, 1 part medium size perlite and 1 part medium sphagnum moss.
The plant should be repotted about every two years or when the potting medium is decomposed. If brown particles from breakdown of bark drain from the pot during watering, the bark is no longer satisfactory. If you insert your finger into the bottom hole in the pot and the bark is no longer firm, it is time to repot. It is best to repot in spring or summer, and just after the plant has completed its bloom cycle. Remove the plant from the pot, wash the roots, and remove any dead roots. Live roots will be whitish, firm, and plump; dead roots will be brown, wiry, and dry. Use a sterile razor blade or sterile pruner to remove them. Always sterilize your tools between plants so as not to spread disease. Use a suitable disinfectant such as bleach.
Watering:
Phalaenopsis thailandica should be kept very moist all year round, but there should be excellent drainage and the substrate around the roots should never be soggy or stale. It is suggested to water with warm water at a temperature of about 21 ° C. Watering is needed twice per day during very hot and dry months, and only 2-3 times per week during wet months or none at all for matured plants.
It is best to water in the morning. Place the plant in the sink and use tepid water. Do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Be sure to let the plant drain completely. If any water remains in the crown (where the leaves join in the center) use a paper towel to blot the water to avoid crown rot.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize your plant once each week after watering, or three weeks out of four. Use a balanced orchid fertilizer such as 20-20-20 at half strength the recommended concentration on the label. It is important to always give the plants a good watering before fertilizing, otherwise the roots will burn.
Weak fertilizer applied frequently is better than strong application. Reduction of fertilizers is suggested once flower spikes and during low light conditions. It is important to note that feeding depends upon some other environmental factors, the higher the light the more food is required; the more food is available at the roots the more of water is necessary to prevent salt damage to the roots. Plants grown under lower light and temperature, less water and feed is required.
To avoid mineral deposits building up during periods of heavy fertilization, it is advisable to rinse the containers approximately every month. Rinsing is especially important where the water is highly mineralized. First, water the plant normally to dissolve the accumulated salts, and after about an hour, rinse the substrate with water equal to twice the volume of the container.
Rest period:
The Thailand Phalaenopsis should be limited in the amount of water during 2-3 winter months. They should dry up a bit between waterings, but they must not be left without water for too long. Fertilization should be reduced or eliminated until new growths appear in spring, at which point regular watering resumes.
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