Hosta - Plantain lilies is native to northeast Asia. It grow in moist woodlands, open grasslands, and along stream banks
Hosta, also called as Plantain lilies, Bryocles, Niobe, is a genus in the Asparagaceae family. This genus was described by Leopold Trattinnicke in 1812 and was named in honor of the Austrian botanist Nicholas Thomas Host.
IDENTIFY HOSTA - PLANTAIN LILIES
Hosta is native to northeast Asia (China, Japan, Korea, and the Russian Far East). It grow in moist woodlands, open grasslands, and along stream banks and rivers at elevations of 200-1200 meters above sea level. They were first introduced to Europe in the late 1700s and then came to the United States in the middle 1800s.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant, growing from rhizome or stolons, with broad lanceolate or ovate leaves varying widely in size by species from 3-45 cm long and 2-30 cm broad. Leaves come in a wide range of shapes, colors, sizes, and textures and may be solid in color or variegated in different combinations of blue, green, white, and gold. Some plants also show seasonal foliar changes. A plant that exhibits "viridiscence" will change from light colors in the leaf early in the growing season to all green leaves as the season progresses. "Lutescent" leaves will change from green to yellow, and "albescent" leaves will turn from yellow to white. Leaf color may also be affected by the amount of sun the leaves receive.
Plantain lilies blooms in summer from the upright scapes that are woody and remain on the plant throughout winter, they are generally taller than the leaf mound, and end in terminal racemes. The individual flowers are usually pendulous, 2-5 cm long, with six tepals, white, lavender, or violet in color and usually scentless. New cultivars of hosta plants are also being bred to produce larger and even more attractive flowers. Some newer plants may have 50-75 blooms on each flower scape. All fragrant hosta flowers are hybridized from Hosta plantaginea, which has 6-inch long, beautiful, white fragrant flowers
While usually grown for ornamental purposes, all species of hosta are edible, and are grown as vegetables in some Asian cultures. However, hostas may be toxic to dogs, cats, and horses if consumed in large quantities because some contain saponins. Symptoms include vomiting and diarrhea.
HOSTA - PLANTAIN LILIES CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Hosta do great in shade where other plants would struggle. Plants grown in full afternoon sun (especially variegated plants) will show signs of marginal burning on leaves in the summer months. Although, a few such as Plantagenia, actually appreciate some sun to achieve it’s wonderful large fragrant blooms. However, most hostas perform best when there is a limited amount of direct or filtered sun during the day. In most cases, early day sun to about mid-morning & late afternoon sun after 5pm will not burn your hosta leaves.
In general, the blue-leafed hostas require shade, while the gold, yellow, and white-leafed hostas can tolerate more sun. Fragrant hostas grow best with 5-6 hours of daily sun. Morning sun with some early afternoon sun helps the fragrant blossom to develop. A few examples of sun tolerant hostas are Hosta plantaginea, 'August Moon', 'Fragrant Bouquet', 'Guacamole', 'Fried Green Tomatoes', and 'Sum and Substance'.
© Sharon
Temperature:
Plantain lilies are among the most adaptable perennials. They do well from USDA Hardiness Zone 3 (-40°F minimum) southward as far as zone 9 (20°F minimum). Hostas need a period of cold weather, at the onset of which they turn a pleasing yellow and then go dormant. Insufficient winter chill and dry air, such as in western deserts, are the chief limiting factors.
Substrate and growing media:
Hosta are tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions but will grow best in well drained, slightly acidic pH, rich organic soil. Most varieties of hostas can also be grown attractively in containers or pots without replanting for two to three or more years given a proper container size, frequent watering, & fertilizing.
When making a new bed, many gardeners like to cultivate to a depth of 12-16 inches. Apply 6 inches of organic matter and till it into the new bed. Materials such as compost, leaf mold, well-rotted manure, peat moss, composted pine bark, and municipal sludge products may be used. The addition of organic matter will also serve to raise the bed, which will improve drainage for the plants. The ideal pH range for hostas is 6.5-7.5, which is slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. In higher pH soils, the addition of organic matter such as Canadian peat moss and cottonseed meal will tend to lower the pH.
The planting hole should be dug at least a foot deep. The width of the hole should be one and a half times the expected mature size of the clump. Check the plant's label for ultimate size, or ask a nursery for information. Most hosta roots will grow and spread horizontally, so a large, wide hole is best.
Watering:
Water is important for optimal growth. A minimum of an inch of water each week is recommended, and can come from rain, irrigation, or hand watering. Hostas that are grown in sandy soil may need even more water because of the increased drainage provided by the sandy conditions. In general, the greatest growth occurs when water exceeds the minimum recommended rate. Watering hostas on a regular basis early in the day is highly recommended. The soil should also be checked to make sure runoff is not occurring. A deep watering will ensure good root development.
If hostas do not receive sufficient water, they will begin to go dormant. The plant will wilt followed by a browning and then loss of leaves. This is your plants way of conserving energy and protecting the crown from death. But, if the soil is perpetually soggy, this can create rot. The most critical time to water consistently for successful growing is when hostas break dormancy in spring & when they begin the dormancy process in early fall.
Fertilizer:
A balanced granular fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 can be applied early in the spring, followed by an application six weeks later, followed by a midsummer application. Timing of these applications would typically be early April, mid- to late May, and mid-July.
For optimal results it is recommended that you have a soil test done to see what your soil is lacking before deciding what to fertilize with. Many gardens do not need additional fertilizer if a soil test shows the soil has sufficient amounts of the necessary nutrients. In this case, an addition of compost over the bed once a year, applied in the fall, is usually sufficient.
Pruning and mulching:
In early summer, apply approximately 1 inch of loose organic mulch to inhibit weed growth, reduce water loss and lessen soil compaction. A thick layer of mulch is likely to promote slug populations. Water in the morning so the mulch surfaces dry before evening, and occasionally rake the mulch to improve air movement.
Winter mulch should applied to help newly planted hostas from repeated freezing and thawing of the soil. Remove any remaining hosta foliage before a winter mulch is added or snow covers the plants. Remove the winter mulch along with leaf debris in early spring prior to visible growth.
Winter period:
Plantain lilies begin to go dormant in September. emperatures play a major role in how fast they go dormant. To begin winterizing, if necessary, keep supplying them with an inch or so of water per week throughout the fall. If you have been fertilizing the plants, stop feeding them in late summer or they will continue to produce leaves. These tender new leaves can make the entire plant, including the crown and roots, susceptible to frost damage
It is best to leave them be until the leaves have lost all coloration as this is when they have stopped storing sugar. Then, you can pull off the dead leaves or let them turn into compost through the winter. Clean the pots and display beds in late fall to early winter as it is one less place for slugs to hide & gives a clean look to the winter beds. Hostas in the ground begin to emerge here in late March & are fully developed by mid May.
Pests and diseases:
The most common pests a hosta will encounter are snails and slugs. A somewhat water resistant bait has given us excellent results in controlling their population & keeping them off the hostas. The two best times to bait is in October & February, this will greatly increase the kill rate for season, as there is usually a warmer, dry period in the month when the slugs come out looking for food & lay eggs. Keep in mind pets when using slug bait. Slugs and snails tend to prefer hostas that have relatively thin leaves over the thicker leaved varieties such as blue hostas which have a waxy coating on the leaves that these pests don’t seem to like.
Also, deer may give hostas a try while foraging. Deer that do eat hostas seem to prefer hosta with thinner leaf substance. There is a large array of ways of keeping deer away & repellents available.
Virus are of concern and are an emerging and important issue in growing hostas. Symptoms include an irregular mottling of the foliage, yellow ringspots, or small yellow dots or flecks on the leaves. If a virus is present, the plant should be discarded and tools used in the hosta planting should be disinfected.
Propagation:
A clump of hosta begins to show its mature characteristics after three years and should be fully mature at five years. It is easily propagated by dividing existing plants. Hostas do not come true when planted from seeds, with Hosta ventricosa being the one exception. Some growers do not divide the display hostas, as each year they are left undisturbed, they look more and more stunning.
Hostas can be divided about any time of the year in more temperate climates where the summers are warm but the nights cool off such as our western Oregon climate. If you live in an area that gets hot and humid summers such as the Midwest & southern states, it is recommended that you split your plants in spring or wait until the summer heat begins to fade & the night time temperatures begin to fall back. If you try to divide your hostas under hot, humid conditions, you may have problems with crown rot.
To divide your hostas use a sharp knife to cut through the basal plate of hard tissue between the foliage & roots. Divisions are best when an eye is left with some basal plate & roots. Then this can be planted. It is a great way to increase the stock you have for mass plantings with a limited purchase or to share your hosta with friends. Keep newly divided plants well watered for the first two weeks, especially if there is a period of drought. Some of the larger leaves on a division may be cut back to reduce water loss. Frequent division of a clump will restrict plant and leaf size, and keep it from developing to its desirable mature features.
BUY HOSTA - PLANTAIN LILIES AND RELATED PRODUCTS
BUY ANOTHERS SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF HOSTA GENUS HERE!
SOMES SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF HOSTA GENUS WITH CARE TIPS AND CULTURE SHEET:
- Hosta Afterglow
- Hosta Age of Gold
- Hosta albofarinosa - White Powder Hosta
- Hosta Ambrosia
- Hosta Angel Falls
- Hosta Aristocrat
- Hosta Atlantis
- Hosta Autumn Frost
- Hosta Beckoning
- Hosta Beyond Glory
- Hosta Blue Elf
- Hosta Blue Ivory
- Hosta Bridal Falls
- Hosta Bright Star
- Hosta capitata - Hosta nakaiana
- Hosta Cathedral Windows
- Hosta clausa - Hosta clausa var. clausa
- Hosta Clovelly
- Hosta Coast to Coast
- Hosta Color Festival
- Hosta Dancing in the Rain
- Hosta Dancing Stars
- Hosta Diamonds Are Forever
- Hosta Diamond Lake
- Hosta Drop-dead Gorgeous
- Hosta El Nino
- Hosta Empress Wu
- Hosta Etched Glass
- Hosta Eye Declare
- Hosta Fireworks
- Hosta First Blush
- Hosta Forbidden Fruit
- Hosta Fragrant Queen
- Hosta Goodness Gracious
- Hosta gracillima - Small rock hosta
- Hosta Great Escape
- Hosta 'Guacamole' - Hosta cultivar
- Hosta 'Halcyon' - Hosta cultivar
- Hosta Hands Up
- Hosta Hanky Panky
- Hosta High Society
- Hosta Hudson Bay
- Hosta hypoleuca - White-backed hosta
- Hosta Independence
- Hosta Island Breeze
- Hosta jonesii - Many Islands Hosta
- Hosta June Fever
- Hosta June Spirit
- Hosta Justine
- Hosta Karin
- Hosta kikutii - Sunny Place Hosta
- Hosta kiyosumiensis - Kiyosumi Mountain Hosta
- Hosta Liberty
- Hosta Little Jay
- Hosta Little Treasure
- Hosta longipes - Rock Hosta
- Hosta longissima - Water Hosta
- Hosta Magic Fire
- Hosta Mini Skirt
- Hosta minor - Korean Hosta
- Hosta Miss America
- Hosta Neptune
- Hosta Old Glory
- Hosta One Last Dance
- Hosta Orange Marmalade
- Hosta Orange Star
- Hosta Paradise Island
- Hosta Paradise Joyce
- Hosta Paradise Power
- Hosta 'Patriot' - Hosta cultivar
- Hosta 'Paul's Glory' - Hosta cultivar
- Hosta Pineapple Punch
- Hosta plantaginea - Fragrant plantain lily - August lily
- Hosta Pocketful of Sunshine
- Hosta Prairie Sky
- Hosta pulchella - Mountain Peak Hosta
- Hosta Purple Heart
- Hosta pycnophylla - Setouchi Hosta
- Hosta Rainbow's End
- Hosta Raspberry Sundae
- Hosta rectifolia - Erect Hosta
- Hosta Rhino Hide
- Hosta Royal Crest
- Hosta Royal Wedding
- Hosta rupifraga - Hachijo Hosta
- Hosta School Mouse
- Hosta Secret Ambition
- Hosta Secret Treasure
- Hosta Seducer
- Hosta shikokiana - Shikoku Hosta
- Hosta sieboldiana var. elegans - Giant blue Hosta
- Hosta sieboldii - Small-leaved Hosta
- Hosta Silly String
- Hosta Singing in the Rain
- Hosta Sparkler
- Hosta Sun Mouse
- Hosta Tattoo
- Hosta Thunderbolt
- Hosta Time in a Bottle
- Hosta Touch of Class
- Hosta Tropical Dancer
- Hosta tsushimensis - Tsushima plantain lily
- Hosta Twilight
- Hosta ventricosa - Blue plantain lily
- Hosta venusta - Handsome plantain lily
- Hosta Voices in the Wind
- Hosta yingeri - Huksan Island Hosta
- Hosta Waterslide
- Hosta Wheee
- Hosta White Triumphator
- Hosta Wrinkle in Time
- Hosta Wu Hoo
- Hosta Wu-La-La
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