Hosta longipes - Rock Hosta begins to show its mature characteristics after three years and should be fully mature at five years...
Hosta longipes, also called as Rock Hosta, Funkia longipes, Funkia tardiflora, Hosta leptophylla, Hosta sparsa, Hosta tardiflora, Hosta tortifrons, is a species of the genus Hosta. This species was described by Jinzô Matsumura in 1894. The specific epithet means long-stalked.
IDENTIFY HOSTA LONGIPES - ROCK HOSTA
Hosta longipes is native to Japan. It grows in an area from about 100 miles north of Tokyo south about 800 miles to Kyushu Island. Because of the wide native range, and the mountainous habitat of Japan, which creates isolated areas, polymorphism exists. This means that the species the most variable species, with dozens of forms selected for differences in plant size, leaf underside, leaf shape, leaf color, flower color and other flowering characteristics. It also grows on a broad range of sites, but usually on rocky soils.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing in clump which reaching 20-30 cm in diameter, 15-20 cm in height with 10-13 by 5-7 cm ovate leaves. The leaves are shiny and medium to dark green. The underside of the leaf is a polished green or may have a glaucous bloom. Different varieties address this variation. Petioles tend to have reddish purple dots or streaks.
Rock Hosta blooms in late August to late September from the 15-20 cm, occasionally to 30 cm long, sea-green, slightly pruinose or shiny, permanently purple-dotted, very dark in lower half - scape which give a rise of 8-12 flowered raceme. The flowers are pale to dark purple, rarely white.
This species has numerous forms and varieties:
- Hosta longipes var. vulgata: is found in Kanagawa-ken, Shizuoka-ken, and Aichi-ken and southern Chūbu-chihō. It has shiny green on the back of the leaves and forms a small to medium sized clump.
- Hosta longipes var. lancea: has smaller leaves and red petioles.
- Hosta longipes var. caduca: is somewhat variable in the wild. Size may range from 12 to 20 inches tall in its native habitat. Many variegated forms exist.
- Hosta longipes var. latifolia: is usually a small mound, but may be larger. It has shiny dark green foliage of thick substance and is lustrous on the backside of the leaves, but may have a light waxy bloom. Leaves are ovate and smooth with a wavy margin. Flowers tend to bloom a bit later than other varieties and are purple in color. Light red dots are found on the petioles.
- Hosta longipes f. hypoglauca: is found only on Honshu Island. It has a substantial glaucous bloom on the underside of the thick leaves.
- Hosta longipes f. viridipes: has green petioles and no reddish dots. It has broad oval leaves that are shiny on the underside. The plant is slightly rhizomatous.
- Hosta longipes f. albiflora: is also sometimes found in hosta literature. This form has predominantly white flowers.
HOSTA LONGIPES - ROCK HOSTA CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Hosta longipes do great in shade. Plants grown in full afternoon sun will show signs of marginal burning on leaves in the summer months. It perform best when there is a limited amount of direct or filtered sun during the day. Early day sun to about mid-morning & late afternoon sun after 5pm will not burn the leaves.
Temperature:
Rock Hosta do well from USDA Hardiness Zone 3 (-40°F minimum) southward as far as zone 9 (20°F minimum). It need a period of cold weather, at the onset of which they turn a pleasing yellow and then go dormant. Insufficient winter chill and dry air, such as in western deserts, are the chief limiting factors.
Substrate and growing media:
Hosta longipes grow best in well drained, slightly acidic pH, rich organic soil. The plant can also be grown attractively in containers or pots without replanting for two to three or more years given a proper container size, frequent watering, & fertilizing.
When making a new bed, many gardeners like to cultivate to a depth of 12-16 inches. Apply 6 inches of organic matter and till it into the new bed. Materials such as compost, leaf mold, well-rotted manure, peat moss, composted pine bark, and municipal sludge products may be used. The addition of organic matter will also serve to raise the bed, which will improve drainage for the plants. The ideal pH range is 6.5-7.5, which is slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. In higher pH soils, the addition of organic matter such as Canadian peat moss and cottonseed meal will tend to lower the pH.
The planting hole should be dug at least a foot deep. The width of the hole should be one and a half times the expected mature size of the clump. Their roots will grow and spread horizontally, so a large, wide hole is best.
Watering:
Water is important for optimal growth. A minimum of an inch of water each week is recommended, and can come from rain, irrigation, or hand watering. The plants that are grown in sandy soil may need even more water because of the increased drainage provided by the sandy conditions. In general, the greatest growth occurs when water exceeds the minimum recommended rate. Watering on a regular basis early in the day is highly recommended. The soil should also be checked to make sure runoff is not occurring. A deep watering will ensure good root development.
If the plants do not receive sufficient water, they will begin to go dormant. The plant will wilt followed by a browning and then loss of leaves. This is your plants way of conserving energy and protecting the crown from death. But, if the soil is perpetually soggy, this can create rot. The most critical time to water consistently for successful growing is when the plant break dormancy in spring & when they begin the dormancy process in early fall.
Fertilizer:
A balanced granular fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 can be applied early in the spring, followed by an application six weeks later, followed by a midsummer application. Timing of these applications would typically be early April, mid- to late May, and mid-July.
For optimal results it is recommended that you have a soil test done to see what your soil is lacking before deciding what to fertilize with. Many gardens do not need additional fertilizer if a soil test shows the soil has sufficient amounts of the necessary nutrients. In this case, an addition of compost over the bed once a year, applied in the fall, is usually sufficient.
Pruning and mulching:
In early summer, apply approximately 1 inch of loose organic mulch to inhibit weed growth, reduce water loss and lessen soil compaction. A thick layer of mulch is likely to promote slug populations. Water in the morning so the mulch surfaces dry before evening, and occasionally rake the mulch to improve air movement.
Winter mulch should applied to help newly planted hostas from repeated freezing and thawing of the soil. Remove any remaining foliage before a winter mulch is added or snow covers the plants. Remove the winter mulch along with leaf debris in early spring prior to visible growth.
Winter period:
Rock Hosta begin to go dormant in September. Temperatures play a major role in how fast they go dormant. To begin winterizing, if necessary, keep supplying them with an inch or so of water per week throughout the fall. If you have been fertilizing the plants, stop feeding them in late summer or they will continue to produce leaves. These tender new leaves can make the entire plant, including the crown and roots, susceptible to frost damage
It is best to leave them be until the leaves have lost all coloration as this is when they have stopped storing sugar. Then, you can pull off the dead leaves or let them turn into compost through the winter. Clean the pots and display beds in late fall to early winter as it is one less place for slugs to hide & gives a clean look to the winter beds. The plant in the ground begin to emerge here in late March & are fully developed by mid May.
Pests and diseases:
The most common pests the plant will encounter are snails and slugs. A somewhat water resistant bait has given us excellent results in controlling their population & keeping them off the plants. The two best times to bait is in October & February, this will greatly increase the kill rate for season, as there is usually a warmer, dry period in the month when the slugs come out looking for food & lay eggs. Keep in mind pets when using slug bait.
Also, deer may give the plant a try while foraging. Deer that do eat the plant seem to prefer hosta with thinner leaf substance. There is a large array of ways of keeping deer away & repellents available.
Virus are of concern and are an emerging and important issue in growing hostas. Symptoms include an irregular mottling of the foliage, yellow ringspots, or small yellow dots or flecks on the leaves. If a virus is present, the plant should be discarded and tools used in the hosta planting should be disinfected.
Propagation:
Hosta longipes begins to show its mature characteristics after three years and should be fully mature at five years. It is easily propagated by dividing existing plants. Some growers do not divide the display hostas, as each year they are left undisturbed, they look more and more stunning.
The plant can be divided about any time of the year in more temperate climates where the summers are warm but the nights cool off such as our western Oregon climate. If you live in an area that gets hot and humid summers such as the Midwest & southern states, it is recommended that you split your plants in spring or wait until the summer heat begins to fade & the night time temperatures begin to fall back. If you try to divide your plant under hot, humid conditions, you may have problems with crown rot.
To divide your plants use a sharp knife to cut through the basal plate of hard tissue between the foliage & roots. Divisions are best when an eye is left with some basal plate & roots. Then this can be planted. It is a great way to increase the stock you have for mass plantings with a limited purchase or to share your hosta with friends. Keep newly divided plants well watered for the first two weeks, especially if there is a period of drought. Some of the larger leaves on a division may be cut back to reduce water loss. Frequent division of a clump will restrict plant and leaf size, and keep it from developing to its desirable mature features.
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