Dracaena 'Massangeana' is popular because of its long graceful green leaves that have a yellow and light green stripe running down the center.
Dracaena massangeana also called as Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Mass cane is a cultivars of Dracaena fragrans in the Dracaena genus. It is especially popular because of its long graceful green leaves that have a yellow and light green stripe running down the center.
IDENTIFY DRACAENA MASSANGEANA - MASS CANE
Dracaena massangeana is a slow growing shrub, usually multi-stemmed at the base, which reaching 5 to 15 feet tall or more with 2 to 3 feet diameter stem on old plants. The upright, multiple, unbranched stems, with rosettes of arching, broad evergreen leaves have a wide, central yellow stripe, and form a heavy but graceful tropical clump, suitable for low-maintenance container culture or specimen planting.
In comparison to the other variegated ones, it tends to have a thinner yellow line and is less distinctive than Dracaena fragrans 'Victoria'. The leaves overall also tend to be narrower and longer. This cultivar accounts for nearly 90% of the corn plants sold.
Although originally from Africa, the mass cane is popular throughout many homes and offices in the U.S. and the U.K. because it is a low-maintenance beauty. For those who are lucky enough, the corn plant may even produce clusters of fragrant white flowers, though this is very rare. Extremely fragrant flowers are occasionally produced and open during the night.
DRACAENA MASSANGEANA - MASS CANE CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Dracaena massangeana grow best under 63 to 73% shade (3250 to 4000 fc). This plants tolerates a wide variety of indoor light conditions, but ideally, it thrives in an area with bright, indirect sunlight. Moderate bright light will provide all this plant needs to grow and produce healthy-looking leaves. Placing it on a porch or near an eastern-facing window is best.
In strong light, the plant will grow faster, but the leaves may become bleached or burned, and the soil will dry out too quickly, which causes dehydration. If you cannot avoid growing the plant in an area with copious amounts of sun, then the plant needs to be regularly fertilized to avoid symptoms of chlorosis. However, too much sun creates a greater chance of the plant developing mealy bug. If you cannot move the mass cane to another location, filter the light with a curtain.
Mass cane is very tolerant in low-light conditions, but it will grow much more slowly and the leaves may yellow or brown. If growing in low light, you should water less frequently to avoid root rot and browning leaves.
Temperature:
As a desert plant and a lover of hot and dry environments, the plants thrives at a temperature between 70 and 90 ° F. It is suited to frost-free climates and USDA Hardiness zones 10-11. Be careful: avoid placing it right behind a window facing south, the direct light could burn it : a window facing west is best. At soil or air temperatures less than 65°F, very little growth will occur. Plants will be damaged at 35°F air temperature if exposed for short periods, 1-2 days, or if exposed to 55°F for 1 week. To simply protect the plants from cold damage, a minimum of 50°F should be held and plants should be sheltered from wind. Temperatures below 50°F, but above freezing, have been observed to cause chilling damage when plants are exposed to wind.
Humidity:
Preferably 50% or higher; however, they will tolerate lower levels without harm. In dry weather, spray your plant with soft water, clean the dust on the leaves: it will be all the more beautiful and you will protect it from red spiders.
Substrate and growing media:
Sphagnum peat, pine bark, vermiculate, or perlite (leach before using) can be volumetrically combined to formulate media for plants in smaller containers while media for larger plants may contain 10–20% coarse sand to keep plants from wind tipping. Media should have good moisture capacity and aeration, and pH of 6.0 to 6.5. A pH lower than 6.0 may cause leaf chlorosis while a media pH above 6.5 will cause iron deficiency.
At the end of winter every year, transplant your Dracaena massangeana in a pot slightly larger than the current, with a mixture of garden soil and potting soil. If it is too big for potting, just scratch the top soil and add a layer of potting soil.
Watering:
During growth seasons (spring, summer), watering should be regular, about once or twice a week, but controlled, to make sure the roots don't rot. In autumn, gradually reduce watering until winter, when twice-monthly watering will suffice.
Fertilizer:
Dracaena massangeana are moderate feeders especially when grown under high light. Reduce feeding if grown in shade. In summer, add liquid fertilizer for green plants every 2 weeks. You can also add slow release fertilizer pellets to the soil mix when planting or repotting. Stop all fertilizer treatments at the end of summer.
Pruning:
The plants have an upright habit and in time can get too tall for the growing situation. At this time the plant can be headed back and they will quickly re-sprout and form a new lead. rim up any new sprouts or side shoots to help the plant maintain its shape.
Propagation:
Rooting of tip cuttings, air layering, and cane cuttings are the primary methods. Propagation started from terminal cuttings with foliage to the base. Very large cuttings and layers generally have exposed stems at the base. Plants can be propagated from cane sections: cane should be handled as though it is a leafy cutting. Removing a small portion of the base of the cane before placement of cane in the propagating medium allows for better water uptake.
Pests and diseases:
Few problems with insects. Root disease can be an issue if grown wet and cool conditions.
Leaf tips or margins become chlorotic or necrotic (cause of high boron, fluoride, or soluble salts; media pH may be too low): Damaged leaves will not recover; leach media to lower high soluble salts; adjust media pH to 6.5 and use fertilizers and water low in boron and fluoride.
Yellowing of leaves with green veins creating a netted appearance (cause of temperatures above 90°F and low available iron): Lower media pH to 6.0; increase shade levels if in a production area; drench with iron chelate.
Slimy, necrotic spots on leaves, mass leaf drop (cause of chilling injury): Plants should be kept in areas above 60°F at all times, including shipping and showcasing.
Older leaves will turn purple (cause of phosphorus deficiency): Common in soils high in aluminum; increase phosphorus in fertilizer.
Tipburn in older leaves (cause of sodium toxicity): Increase potassium and top dress with gypsum; usually a result of high salinity in irrigation waters.
Reduced leaf size (cause of zinc deficiency): Spray with chelated zinc; affected leaves will not recover.
Flowering (abnormal flowering): Usually caused by cooler, wet weather; an increase in nitrogen helps keep it at bay.
Abnormally narrow leaves (cause of strap-leaf): Root disease or poorly aerated soil; repot into fresh media.
Leaves curl: A temporary condition brought on by high light and/or temperature; as light or temperature is reduced, the leaves will return to normal.
Sunken, rust-colored areas appear on leaves usually near the tips (cause of sunburn): Remove the plant from the affecting light and gently trim the damaged areas.
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