Dracaena marginata is indigenous to the island of Madagascar. It has been a popular foliage plant for many years because of its distinctive appearance
Dracaena marginata also called as Red-edged dracaena, Madagascar dragon tree, Cordyline marginata, Dracaena gracilis, Dracaena tessellata, Draco marginata, Pleomele marginata and its scientific name Dracaena reflexa var. marginata, is a variety of Dracaena reflexa in the Dracaena genus. This variety was described by John Gilbert Baker in 1875. Multiple thin, curving stalks with narrow ribbonlike, green leaves edged in purplish-red distinguish this plant from others plants in this genus.
IDENTIFY DRACAENA MARGINATA - MADAGASCAR DRAGON TREE
Dracaena marginata is indigenous to the island of Madagascar. It has been a popular foliage plant for many years because of its distinctive appearance. The upright, unbranched stems form a delicate, somewhat abstract silhouette, perfect for accent planting or for low-maintenance container culture as a house plant or outdoors. It is a fine specimen to silhouette against a wall at night with up-lighting.
It is a medium to large sized shrub with woody, erect stem and the long, narrow, sword-like leaves clasp the stem in a closely stacked fashion. Young plants are single stemmed but can be induced to branch and are sometimes trained to have bent or character stems. The dark green glossy leaves are trimmed with a narrow, dark red margin. Leaves on large plants may exceed 18 inches in length, and old plants may be 10 feet high from soil level.
The variety include 'Tarzan', 'Magenta', 'Tricolor', and 'Colorama'. Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor' has longitudinal ivory stripes through the central green area and red margins. Dracaena marginata 'Colorama' is similar to Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor' except there are red and ivory bands in the central sector of the leaf. Because the variegated cultivars have less chlorophyll than the species, they are less vigorous during production and less likely to succeed indoors, except in very bright locations.
DRACAENA MARGINATA - MADAGASCAR DRAGON TREE CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Dracaena marginata can be grown under 63 to 73% shade (3250 to 4000 fc). The red tones in its cultivars increase with higher light. It has the ability to grow in a mixture of both shade and sun, both inside and outside the home. If planted outside, it needs to be located in hardiness zones 10b and above because of the fact that most tropical plants cannot survive frost or winter. Additionally, it would prefer to have some shelter during the hot afternoon sun if planted outside in direct sunlight.
Temperature:
As a desert plant and a lover of hot and dry environments, the plants thrives at a temperature between 70 and 90 ° F. Be careful: avoid placing it right behind a window facing south, the direct light could burn it : a window facing west is best. At soil or air temperatures less than 65°F, very little growth will occur. Plants will be damaged at 35°F air temperature if exposed for short periods, 1-2 days, or if exposed to 55°F for 1 week. To simply protect the plants from cold damage, a minimum of 50°F should be held and plants should be sheltered from wind. Temperatures below 50°F, but above freezing, have been observed to cause chilling damage when plants are exposed to wind.
Humidity:
Preferably 50% or higher; however, they will tolerate lower levels without harm. In dry weather, spray your plant with soft water, clean the dust on the leaves: it will be all the more beautiful and you will protect it from red spiders.
Substrate and growing media:
Sphagnum peat, pine bark, vermiculate, or perlite (leach before using) can be volumetrically combined to formulate media for plants in smaller containers while media for larger plants may contain 10–20% coarse sand to keep plants from wind tipping. Media should have good moisture capacity and aeration, and pH of 6.0 to 6.5. A pH lower than 6.0 may cause leaf chlorosis while a media pH above 6.5 will cause iron deficiency.
At the end of winter every year, transplant your plant in a pot slightly larger than the current, with a mixture of garden soil and potting soil. If it is too big for potting, just scratch the top soil and add a layer of potting soil.
Watering:
During growth seasons (spring, summer), watering should be regular, about once or twice a week, but controlled, to make sure the roots don't rot. In autumn, gradually reduce watering until winter, when twice-monthly watering will suffice. Once a mature plant is established, it is quite drought-tolerant, but for peak health will require a moderate amount of water. If planted indoors, the soil should be kept evenly moist.
Fertilizer:
They are moderate feeders especially when grown under high light. Reduce feeding if grown in shade. In summer, add liquid fertilizer for green plants every 2 weeks. You can also add slow release fertilizer pellets to the soil mix when planting or repotting. Stop all fertilizer treatments at the end of summer.
Pruning:
The plants have an upright habit and in time can get too tall for the growing situation. At this time the plant can be headed back and they will quickly re-sprout and form a new lead.
Propagation:
Dracaena marginata and its cultivars are propagated from cuttings or, in a few instances, air layers are used on relatively large stems. Propagation started from terminal cuttings with foliage to the base. Very large cuttings and layers generally have exposed stems at the base. Cuttings placed in small pots are usually plunged to the bottom to insure support. Cuttings and layers used in larger containers are set slightly above the base to provide a better environment for root development.
Pests and diseases:
Few problems with insects. Root disease can be an issue if grown wet and cool conditions.
Leaf tips or margins become chlorotic or necrotic (cause of high boron, fluoride, or soluble salts; media pH may be too low): Damaged leaves will not recover; leach media to lower high soluble salts; adjust media pH to 6.5 and use fertilizers and water low in boron and fluoride.
Yellowing of leaves with green veins creating a netted appearance (cause of temperatures above 90°F and low available iron): Lower media pH to 6.0; increase shade levels if in a production area; drench with iron chelate.
Slimy, necrotic spots on leaves, mass leaf drop (cause of chilling injury): Plants should be kept in areas above 60°F at all times, including shipping and showcasing.
Older leaves will turn purple (cause of phosphorus deficiency): Common in soils high in aluminum; increase phosphorus in fertilizer.
Tipburn in older leaves (cause of sodium toxicity): Increase potassium and top dress with gypsum; usually a result of high salinity in irrigation waters.
Reduced leaf size (cause of zinc deficiency): Spray with chelated zinc; affected leaves will not recover.
Flowering (abnormal flowering): Usually caused by cooler, wet weather; an increase in nitrogen helps keep it at bay.
Abnormally narrow leaves (cause of strap-leaf): Root disease or poorly aerated soil; repot into fresh media.
Leaves curl: A temporary condition brought on by high light and/or temperature; as light or temperature is reduced, the leaves will return to normal.
Sunken, rust-colored areas appear on leaves usually near the tips (cause of sunburn): Remove the plant from the affecting light and gently trim the damaged areas.
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