Alocasia macrorrhizos, also called as Giant taro, Giant alocasia, Elephant ear taro has the capability to grow in habitats ranging from full sunlight.
Alocasia macrorrhizos, also called as Giant taro, Giant alocasia, Elephant ear taro, Alocasia cordifolia, Alocasia gigas, Alocasia grandis, Alocasia harrisii-pulchrum, Alocasia insignis, Alocasia marginata, Alocasia pallida, Alocasia plumbea, Alocasia rapiformis, Alocasia uhinkii, Arum cordifolium, Arum macrorrhizon, Arum mucronatum, Arum peregrinum, Arum rapiforme, Caladium indicum, Caladium macrorrhizon, Caladium metallicum, Caladium odoratum, Caladium plumbeum, Calla badian, Calla maxima, Colocasia boryi, Colocasia macrorrhizos, Colocasia mucronata, Colocasia peregrina, Colocasia rapiformis, Philodendron peregrinum, Philodendron punctatum, is a species of the genus Alocasia. This species was described by George Don in 1839.
IDENTIFY ALOCASIA MACRORRHIZOS - GIANT TARO - GIANT ALOCASIA
Alocasia macrorrhizos is native to Bismarck Archipelago, Borneo, Maluku, New Guinea, Philippines, Queensland, Solomon Is., Sulawesi. It is found growing in roadside ditches, margins of wet fields, frequently cultivated as an ornamental in a number of selected forms at elevations of 0–500 meters above sea level.
Giant taro is a glabrous, terrestrial herb which reaching normally around 1–1.5 m tall but growing up to 5 m with a short, conical corm, produce watery sap and develop an elongated caudex with age. The stem is erect to ca 1.5 m, thence decumbent. The leaves are held erect, with petioles (leaf stalks) up to 130 cm long. The leaves are stout, with sheathing in the lower part. The leaf blades are arrow-shaped, bluntly triangular in general outline with somewhat rounded basal lobes. There are about nine main veins, diverging at an angle of about 60 degrees.
Giant alocasia blooms in summer from the type of inflorescence called a spadix, which is usually accompanied by a whitish to yellowish green spathe or leaf-like bract. The flowers are small, creamy-white, with separate male and female flowers distributed along the spadix. The fruit is a few-seeded red berry, which when ripe is exposed by the recurving segments of the lower spathe tube, which detaches on maturity.
ALOCASIA MACRORRHIZOS - GIANT TARO - GIANT ALOCASIA CARE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Alocasia macrorrhizos can be grown in partial shade. It has the capability to grow in habitats ranging from full sunlight to deep shade. Rotate your plant periodically to ensure even growth on all sides and dust the leaves often so the plant can photosynthesize efficiently. When dusting the leaves, also take the opportunity to inspect the undersides and keep an eye out for pests.
Humidity:
Giant taro needs the humidity level of 50% or higher; however, they will tolerate low levels with no harm. Mist the leaves regularly, place a humidifier nearby, or use a pebble tray to raise the humidity. If you do mist the plant, keep an eye out for fungal plant diseases caused by wet leaves.
Temperature:
Giant alocasia grow best in warm temperatures. Maintain temperatures above 16 °C, but 19 °C is better as they are warm growers. They will falter when temperatures drop below 10 °C for prolonged periods of time. Freezing temperatures damage the leaves, but new ones sprout readily. The best temperature range are 16-30 °C. Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.
Substrate and growing media:
Alocasia macrorrhizos need rich, moist soil and nearly all are perfect at the edge of a pond. The plant can be grown in a few inches of standing water, and can be added to water gardens as emergent plants (the roots in water and with the soil just covered with water, but the plants not submerged).
When grown in pot, the plant need porous soil that has excellent drainage. An ideal soil mix would be equal parts of houseplant soil, peat moss, and perlite. These potting mix ingredients hold just enough moisture and provide excellent drainage. Repot once plant has completely filled the pot. The pot size often appears quite small in relation to the size of the plant this is because the plant grows best when root-bound in a small pot. Avoid rushing to move the plant to a larger container.
Watering:
A little dryness to the surface of the soil is helpful. Allow the top 5-8 cm to dry between watering to ensure the plant isn't sitting in soil that is too wet. During the winter, the plant will go through a dormancy period and will require less frequent waterings as the soil will take longer to dry. Do not keep them evenly moist. When watering, thoroughly saturate soil until a little water runs out of the bottom of the pot. Growing in a clay pot will help maintain a healthy root system.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize sparingly they can be hurt by too much fertilizer. 1/4 strength every two months is adequate. Use a balanced fertilizer like a 15-15-15 or 7-9-5. No fertilizer is needed in the fall and winter months. Before applying, make sure the soil is damp to avoid burning the roots.
Pruning:
The plants continually produce new leaves throughout the growing season. The older leaves that gradually die off can be removed to keep the plants looking tidy. Damaged leaves are usually a sign of a fungal disease and the plant should be treated immediately.
Winter period:
Giant alocasia can be grown as annuals, starting with new plants each year, or may be kept over the winter (hardy only to zone 8). Plants that have formed bulbs can be dug, dried and stored, after frost has killed the foliage. Those without bulbs are harder to keep indoors, although it may be possible to keep them going as houseplants if kept in a warm, bright location. It is best to bring plants to be kept as houseplants indoors before temperatures get into the 0 °C. Cut back all but the top two leaves and keep at room temperature in bright light. Keep plants on the drier side when they are semi-dormant and resume regular watering and fertilizing when growth resumes in the spring.
Propagation:
Although they can be grown from seed, to grow large plant, start with a large bulb or rooted plant. The plants have tuberous rhizome roots that you can cut into sections to grow new plants. It will take a few weeks for the first leaves to appear from the bulb. These frost-tender perennial plants are best started indoors, potting up the bulb in March, placing the top of the bulb close to the soil surface, and keeping it in a warm location until it is planted outside when the weather warms up, usually in late May or early June. Provide copious water and fertilizer as the plants grow, especially for those in containers, as they are heavy feeders.
Pests and diseases:
Alocasia macrorrhizos are not susceptible to insects but can suffer from root rots and bacteria diseases if over watered under cool temperatures and high humidity. Root rot can affect the plant if you overwater the potting soil. Make sure that the soil is evenly moist but never waterlogged, soggy, or too damp. The tuberous roots can quickly start to decay if they grow in overly-damp soil.
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