Ophrys fuciflora, also called as Late spider-orchid is found growing on well-drained calcareous, chalky soil in species-rich, in dry-to-moist...
Ophrys fuciflora, also called as Late spider-orchid, Arachnites fuciflorus, is a species of the genus Ophrys. This species was described by Conrad Moench in 1802.
IDENTIFY OPHRYS FUCIFLORA - LATE SPIDER-ORCHID
Ophrys fuciflora is widespread across much of Europe from Britain and Spain to Turkey and Romania, plus Libya and the Middle East as far east as Iraq. It is found growing on well-drained calcareous, chalky soil in species-rich, in dry-to-moist conditions in short grassland, garrigue, abandoned farmland, open woodland and scrub in Libya, Great Britain, France, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Czechoslovakia, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland, Italy, Yugoslavia, Albania, eastern Aegean Islands, Greece, Cyprus, Turkey, Romania, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Jordan, and Iraq at elevations of 0-1500 meters above sea level.
It is a small to medium sized, cold growing terrestrial which reaching 5-50 cm in height with rounded tuber and erect stem. The leaves are 3-7, lanceolate, form a basal rosette of which the lower leaves lie flat on the ground. They are greenish-grey and prominantly veined. There are 2-3 smaller, more pointed leaves higher up and loosely sheathing the stem.
Late spider-orchid blooms in late spring on a 45 cm long, loosely 3 to 8 flowered inflorescence with foul smelling flowers. The sepals vary in colour from pale to dark pink with a prominent green rib on their outer surfaces, and they are green-veined on the inner surface. The triangular petals are much smaller than the sepals and sometimes have dark reddish swellings towards the base. The lips of the flowers are particularly distinctive and are large and square with complex speculums which stand out against the dark brown velvety backgrounds.
OPHRYS FUCIFLORA - LATE SPIDER-ORCHID CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Ophrys fuciflora receive direct morning sun in autumn in their natural habitat. As the season progresses and grasses and shrubs leaf out, the plant receive less direct sun, more dappled shade. So it is best to grow the plant in spring in direct sunlight in an eastern exposure, and once the sun progresses more directly overhead in summer, provide more shade. Once the leaves have died back in late spring, you can even put them in a shed or other protected area because they are dormant during the summer. In colder areas, the plant need to be brought indoors during the winter months and placed on a windowsill or table near a window where they will still be exposed to the winter light levels, but not to close to the window where it could get too cold.
Humidity:
Late spider-orchid needs the humidity level of 40-60%. Too dry air has a negative effect on the development of the plant: its growth is inhibited, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. The higher temperature, the higher the humidity should be, and the higher the humidity, the more often and longer it is necessary to ventilate the room where the plants are contained, otherwise the probability of rotting and various kinds of fungal diseases. Good air movement is essential while the plants are in leaf and growing.
Temperature:
Ophrys fuciflora will tolerate the typical temperatures from -2 to 28°C providing they are given protection from frosts in winter. Ideally they should be grown in a shade-house or protected verandah position where they are protected from frosts and direct summer sun.
Substrate and growing media:
Late spider-orchid grow in alkaline soils, often colonising areas of disturbed soil particularly those left after building works. The plant can be successfully grown in a greenhouse or coldframe in either terracotta or plastic pots with 80% perlite, pumice or expanded clay, 20% organic components as substrate. Plants to be grown in small terracotta pots should be put into a trough of sand to ensure the tuber keeps cool and to enable watering via the sand rather than onto the rosettes. Plants in plastic pots can be sat on capillary matting which should be kept wet. Check the dampness of the pot by assessing the weight of the pot. Water the matting if the pots feel light.
The plant should be repotted in early autumn soon after the leaves have died back at the end of May. Do not delay repotting as the pseudobulbs shoot below the surface in early winter and the new shoots are easily broken during repotting. They do not like being disturbed and may not flower well for the first year after repotting. They should only be repotted after they have filled the pot or the potting mix needs replacing.
Watering:
The sand should be kept damp. As the plant begins to grow increase the watering of the sand until the tuber compost is slightly damp during the autumn growing period and again when the flower spike grows. Once the leaves have died down in autumn they should not be watered for the next 4-6 weeks and allowed to rest dry to avoid rotting the bulbs.
Fertilizer:
Ophrys fuciflora doesnt need fertiliser. Many experts claim that the use of any fertilizer would ruin the natural growth of this orchid, which only needs to have humus and moisture enriched soil to thrive and flower at the right time.
Rest period:
During the mid winter period watering can be stopped. Stop fertilization in late autumn . When the new leaves have appeared in late winter watering can be resumed but only sparingly for the first few weeks as roots do not develop until about 4 weeks after the shoots appear. The surround air temperature should not be allowed to get too high and provide maximum ventilation throughout the autumn and winter. This is particularly important with the species that grow where the winters are dry and cold. Do not allow the pots to get hot and cold in mid winter.
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