Coelogyne ovalis is found in the Himalayas, Nepal, Thailand, China, Vietnam and India. It grows epiphytic on trees in montane valleys at an altitude of 600 to 2100 meters above sea level...
Coelogyne ovalis also called as The Oval Coelogyne, Coelogyne decora, Coelogyne pilosissima, is a species of the genus Coelogyne. This species was described by John Lindley in 1838.
IDENTIFY COELOGYNE OVALIS ORCHID PLANT
Coelogyne ovalis is found in the Himalayas, Nepal, Thailand, China, Vietnam and India. It grows epiphytic on trees in montane valleys at an altitude of 600 to 2100 meters above sea level.
It is a small sized, warm to cool growing epiphyte or lithophyte with 5 to 7.5 cm between each ovoid-fusiform, smooth, ridged, 3 to 6 cm in length and about 1.5 cm in width pseudobulb enveloped basally by several dry sheaths and carrying 2, apical, erect, narrowly elliptic, acute to acuminate, gradually narrowing below into the elongate, petiolate base, up to 15 cm long and 2.5-4 cm wide leaves.
The Oval Coelogyne blooms in the summer through winter on a slender, 12 cm long, few flowered inflorescence arising on a mature pseudobulb with deciduous floral bracts and carrying successive opening, fragrant flowers. The flowers are yellow-green with brown veins on the lip, about 3 cm in diameter.
COELOGYNE OVALIS ORCHID PLANT CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Coelogyne ovalis loves bright sunlight and is able to safely carry the direct morning and evening sun (18000-35000 lux). The ideal location is the south-east and west windows. When using windows of southern orientation, it should be taken into account that in the spring and summer the intensity of sunlight here is very high and it is necessary to gradually accustom the plant to it (after a dark winter period) or to keep the orchid during the summer heat, not on a windowsill, but on a table (shelves) near the window. Bright sunlight is one of the main prerequisites for the flowering of orchids of this species, and if the lighting is insufficient (especially during the development of new shoots), then the orchid will simply not bloom, as new shoots grow underdeveloped, i.e. incapable of flowering. The total duration of lighting should be at least 10 hours.
Temperature:
You can start with a warmer content, and if the orchid does not bloom, gradually rearrange it to a cooler regime. Range of temperature tolerated by the plant: Day temperature at 18-35 ° C; Night temperature at 10-17 ° C. For the successful cultivation at home, it is necessary that the night temperature of the contents always be at least 3-4 ° C lower than the daytime temperature. Cool nighttime plant content is one of the main factors that stimulate its flowering.
Humidity:
In the natural habitat, the relative humidity of air rarely falls below 70%. In conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room where the plants are kept, since wet, stale air is an ideal medium for the mass reproduction of various fungal and bacterial diseases.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Coelogyne ovalis is usually grow in pots and hanging lattice baskets and placed on blocks. The substrate must be very well breathable, so the mixture of the bark of coniferous trees with charcoal and sphagnum moss (up to 50%) is best in its quality. When growing orchids on blocks to prevent rapid drying of the root system of the plant, it is recommended to make a small interlayer of moss between it and the block. Above the roots, you can also put live or dry sphagnum.
At the transplant, this species reacts negatively enough and may subsequently miss 2-3 flowering, i.e. to form pseudobulbs that do not give flowers, so transplanting an orchid is desirable only when it is really necessary, for example, in cases of severe salinization or condensation of the substrate, at its critically high or low pH (a rate of 5.5 to 6.5) when the plant grows very much and the pot will become too small for it (pseudobulbs will begin to hang from the edges of the pot). The best time to transplant is the period when new young shoots begin to build up their own roots.
Watering:
The frequency and abundance of watering the orchids of this species directly depends on the overall temperature of the content and intensity of the illumination, the higher they are, the more often and abundant it is necessary to water. Plants growing on blocks, it is desirable to water daily in the morning, so that by evening their roots could dry out relatively well. When watering orchids in pots, it is necessary to remember that excess water during watering should flow freely out of the pot, as the stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its pallet can very quickly lead to rotting of the roots and the lower part of the plant. The substrate between the irrigations should dry relatively well, but do not dry out completely, i.e. is always in a slightly moistened, but not wet state.
Fertilizer:
During the whole year, this type of orchid is fertilized every 2-3 weeks in the usual fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. In addition to the standard root top dressing, it is also recommended to produce a foliar dressing when the outer part of the plant is sprayed with a very diluted fertilizer. It is best to feed the orchid, alternating both these methods. The best fertilizer is fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts, for example, NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you do not have such a fertilizer, then at the beginning of the growing season (the emergence of new shoots), feed the orchid fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus, and after flowering - fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content.
Rest period:
Coelogyne ovalis does not needs any period of rest: neither for stimulation of flowering, nor in winter. The refusal of the flowering of the orchid can be caused by the too hot content of the plant (especially at the time of the formation of new pseudobulbs), the lack of sufficient differences between night and day temperatures, poor lighting or the general stress state of the plant (poor root system).
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