Coelogyne corymbosa is found in Nepal, India and China. It grows epiphytic in trees and is lithophytic on rocks in forest margins or on humid cliffs at an altitude of 1400 to 3000 meters above sea level...
Coelogyne corymbosa also called as The Umbrella-Like Coelogyne, Pleione corymbosa, Coelogyne taronensis, is a species of the genus Coelogyne. This species was described by John Lindley in 1854.
IDENTIFY COELOGYNE CORYMBOSA ORCHID PLANT
Coelogyne corymbosa is found in Nepal, India and China. It grows epiphytic in trees and is lithophytic on rocks in forest margins or on humid cliffs at an altitude of 1400 to 3000 meters above sea level.
It is a creeping, small sized, cool to cold growing, epiphytic or lithophytic species with short, clustered, ovoid to sub rhomboidal, 2.5 to 5 cm in length and about 2 cm in width pseudobulbs enveloped basally by a few dark brown sheaths and carrying 2 apical, elliptic-lanceolate, suberect, plicate, 5 nerved, acute, gradually narrowing below into the elongate, grooved, petiolate base, 10-20 cm long and 2-4 cm wide leaves.
The Umbrella-Like Coelogyne blooms in the summer and fall with a terminal, erect or pendant, basally sheathed, to 20 cm long, racemose inflorescence arising on a newly emerging pseudobulb growth and has persistent floral bracts with 2 to 5, simultaneously opening, fragrant, heavy textured flowers. The flowers are fragrant, white with a yellow-brown lip, about 6-7 cm in diameter, have a dry protective scaly. Tepals lanceolate, with pointed tips, measuring 3.5 cm long and 0.9 cm wide, on the outer side have veins, petals somewhat longer and shorter. The lip is triple, its upper parts rounded, and the front part is oval, pointed at the tip, has yellow spots with a brown rim and 3 growths extending almost from the base, the total size of the lip is 3 cm long and 1.7 cm wide. The column is arched.
COELOGYNE CORYMBOSA ORCHID PLANT CARE AND CULTURE
Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.
Light:
Coelogyne corymbosa needs a light level of 25000-35000 lux. This species grows well under 100% artificial lighting, so it is suitable for large terrariums and greenhouses. Color of the leaves is an indicator of the amount of sunlight. If they acquire a yellowish shade, then the light is too much at the moment, and the orchid is very hot, you need to find another darker place for a while, or at least take the plant deep into the room on shelves or a table near the window. If the direct sun does not go directly to the plant, it will feel no better. Too dark color and regular refusal of flowering suggests that the sun on this window sill is too small and the place of content needs to be changed.
Temperature:
In their natural habitat, where the sun shines brightly, but, nevertheless, the air temperature is always in a moderate range, in the range of 12 to 24 ° C with a night drop to 2-16 ° C. Whatever the tremendous diurnal temperature difference in nature, it does not play a key role in the development of orchids and does not substantially accelerate its growth and stimulate flowering, so it is not necessary to repeat it in the home culture.
Humidity:
In the nature, the humidity of the air practically never falls below 70%, and reaches 85-95% at nights. In conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room where the plants are kept, since wet, stale air is an ideal medium for the mass reproduction of various fungal and bacterial diseases.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Coelogyne corymbosa can be grow in plastic pots of light shades, as dark pots in the sun are heated, and an unfavorable medium is created inside. For greenhouses, terrariums and orchidarium, blocks are best suited. As substrate, very air-permeable mixtures with predominance of large pieces of bark is recommended.
Due of this species reacts badly to damaged roots, it is desirable to transplant the orchid only when it is really necessary. For example: If you water it with ordinary tap water, the pH of which is between 7.2 and 7.8, then over time, as a rule, for 2 years, a favorable pH of the substrate (5.5 to 6.5) also will jump to this index, and the orchid will not be able to absorb more useful substances, for example, iron, which means that it will start to lose its color in the leaves - yellow. In addition, salts accumulate in the substrates from fertilizer, or when water is poor in quality, which the orchid can not quickly (or in general) absorb and process, reaching a certain amount, they can cause a massive root burn, and the orchid will lose all its roots overnight (shrink). A good way out of the situation is sphagnum moss, which is placed on top of the bark; as a filter, it retains some of the harmful impurities, and if it is frequently changed, the main mixture can be changed much less often. The best time to transplant is the period immediately after the flowering of the orchid, until the new pseudobulb is fully formed and has lost the ability to grow new roots.
Watering:
The frequency of watering primarily depends on the lighting that affects it. If it is good enough for active growth (new leaves, peduncles, root tips, etc.), then water the plant in order to keep the substrate at least slightly moistened. When an orchid grows, it always needs water, since it participates in virtually all biochemical processes inside the plant. As soon as the intensity of illumination falls, growth slows (or stops), irrigation needs to be reduced, since there is no growth - there is no need for water. Well watered, but not growing orchid will sit for months with wet roots and rhizome and sooner or later it will start to rot. Good drying of the plant in this case will cause harm by an order of magnitude less than waterlogging.
Fertilizer:
During active growth, this type of orchids is fertilized for every third watering in 1/2 of the fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. In addition to the usual root top dressing, it is also recommended to produce a foliar dressing, when a very much diluted fertilizer is sprayed on the outer part of the plant. It is best to feed the orchid, alternating both these methods. The best fertilizer is fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts, for example, NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you do not have such fertilizer, then at the beginning of the growing season (the emergence of new shoots), feed the orchid with a fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus, and immediately after flowering - fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content. To prevent salinization of the substrate, it is recommended to rinse it every 3-6 months.
Rest period:
During the period from November to February, a seasonal decrease in the intensity of illumination is observed, which gives an even lower temperature decrease to 12-20 ° C in the daytime and 2-10 ° C at night. The overall level of precipitation is also decreasing, but the air humidity remains at the same high level, due to which cold fogs prevail at night. Since the active growth of orchids somewhat slows down, this period can be characterized as winter period, but it is not recommended to repeat it one by one in the home culture.
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