Dendrobium kingianum orchid, also called as Thelychiton kingianus, Captain King's dendrobium, Pink rock orchid, occurs naturally in an area along the east coast of Australia between Rockhampton in Queensland and the Hunter River in New SouthWales at elevations of 50 to 1200 meters.
Dendrobium kingianum orchid, also called as Thelychiton kingianus, Captain King's dendrobium, Pink rock orchid, is a species of Dendrobium genus. Several synonyms are know for this species such as "Callista kingiana (Bidwill ex Lindl.) Kuntze", "Dendrocoryne kingianum (Bidwill ex Lindl.) Brieger in F.R.R.Schlechter", "Tropilis kingiana (Bidwill ex Lindl.) Butzin", "Thelychiton kingianus (Bidwill ex Lindl.) M.A.Clem. & D.L.Jones".
IDENTIFY DENDROBIUM KINGIANUM ORCHID
Dendrobium kingianum was first formally described by John Bidwill and his manuscript was published in The Botanical Register, edited by John Lindley. In 2002, Mark Clements and David Jones proposed changing the name to Thelychiton kingianus but the change has not been accepted by the National Herbarium of New South Wales. The specific epithet (kingianum) honours Admiral Phillip Parker King, explorer of Australia.
Dendrobium kingianum occurs naturally in an area along the east coast of Australia between Rockhampton in Queensland and the Hunter River in New South Wales at elevations of 50 to 1200 meters. This species grows naturally on rocky surfaces and occasionally grows epiphytically on tree logs and branches.
Dendrobium kingianum is usually a lithophyte (growing on rocks) but can sometimes be found as an epiphyte (growing on another living plant, but not parasitic in nature). It has a wide variety of growth forms, it can grow in large clumps or individually. It produces pseudo-bulbs which are highly variable in length, 5–30 cm (2–10 in) long and 1–2.5 mm (0.04–0.1 in) in diameter. The thick canes (pseudobulbs) act as a store and enable the plant to survive these periods of stress. They are broadest at the base tapering upwards to a narrow apex with longitudinal grooves. There are generally 3 to 6 leaves at the top of each pseudobulb. The leaves are thin, green and smooth, folded along the mid-line, narrow egg-shaped and 3–10 cm (1–4 in) long and 10–20 mm (0.39–0.79 in) wide. The spongy roots can quickly absorb moisture and nutrients when these are available and as a result small amounts of rainfall and even dew are useful to the plant. During dry periods the roots remain viable and being white in colour reflect some heat. All these adaptive mechanisms enable the plant to survive in a seemingly hostile environment.
Flowers occur on stems from the top of each pseudobulb in racemes of 2 to 15 flowers per stem. There are many colour forms of the flowers of this species. The flowers of the species are quite color variable and have a full range of colors between red, purple, white striped and purplish blue, but pure white and almost red forms are not uncommon. Flowering mostly occurs from August to October but often earlier or later depend on the age, size of the plant, and health of the plant.
GROW AND CARE DENDROBIUM KINGIANUM ORCHID
At the Australian National Botanic Gardens this plant has been grown successfully for years, both out of doors and in glasshouses, although the latter is preferred.
Light:
The Dendrobium Kingianum will grow at any light level, but strong light is required for full potential. In low light levels this orchid will not bloom, a sign of adequate light is a red tinge to the leaves. If the foliage is very dark green, it means the orchid isn’t receiving enough light. Keep in an eastern, or partially shaded southern exposure for adequate light levels.
Australian growers normally use 50% shade cloth and those growing Cymbidiums or perhaps species such as Laelia anceps will easily adapt to growing Den. kingianum.
Temperature:
The ideal temperature is 40º F (5º C) to 85º F (30º C). This orchid can withstand hot temperatures up to even 104º F (40º C) with good air ventilation, partial shade and good watering. In the winter time though, the Kingianum needs an extreme cool down in order to initiate flower spikes. If kept in temperatures over 50º F (10º C) in the winter time, blooming might be poor. Keep away from freezing conditions though, and start to increase temperatures as the flower spikes start to grow.
Humidity:
50% or higher is always ideal. This plant does have strong canes and can survive with very dry air as long as proper watering is practiced. Keep this plant in a more humid environment during hot temperatures, but ensure a good air ventilation as well. Misting should be performed only in the morning, to avoid standing water during night time.
Cultivate:
The plants do well in pots 10 - 15 cm in diameter in a mixture of woodchips and charcoal (not soil). It can be grown on branches of trees or on rocks where it receives nutrients through the break down of leaf litter that accumulates around its root system. While the plant is establishing its root system, it may need to be fixed into position by wire or twine. Eventually new roots will form which will grip the substrate firmly. The plant should not be planted directly into soil as the root system is not adapted to constant moisture. It can also be grown as a container plant in a coarse medium such as pine bark chips. Glasshouse cultivation is not necessary except in colder climates as the plant is frost sensitive.
Watering:
Water once to twice per week in the late spring to early fall, fertilizing once to twice per month. In the winter to early spring, water less frequently and do not fertilize at all. This will help produce flowers (along with keeping the plant cooler). As the temperatures drop and growths are mature, reduce watering drastically and resume watering after the flower spikes start to develop. Use a coarse medium that provides very good drainage and air flow around the roots.
Fertilizer:
A balanced feed at half the recommended strength for houseplants, applied every other or every third watering during the growing season is beneficial (less in winter).
Some growers suggest never using a high nitrogen fertilizer with this orchid, as it will promote the growth of keikis, or offshoots, rather than produce flowers. A high phosphorus fertilizer is the most commonly used fertilizer with this orchid. In the growing season this orchid requires regular feeding with half the amount recommended by the label, but feeding should be withheld completely when canes are mature, usually in late fall and winter. Resume regular feeding after flowers fade.
Rest period and repot:
A cool, dry rest in winter is beneficial to the health of the plant, and also assists flowering. Repot every 1-2 years, using a bark : perlite mix, in a pot just big enough to hold the roots, leaving room for another season’s growth.
Pest control:
Aphids and thrips cause the most damage - they attack the flower spikes and are constant pests that need to be watched. Red mites attack the leaves leaving them scarred and brown in colour. These pests are easily eradicated by normal applications of the appropriate pesticide.
Finally, these plants are protected by law and should not be removed from their natural habitat. They are, however, easily obtained from most orchid nurseries.
COMMENTS