Tillandsia capillaris care and culture

 Tillandsia capillaris also called as Diaphoranthema capillaris, Tillandsia capillaris f. typical, Tillandsia dependens, Tillandsia hieronymi, Tillandsia permutata, Tillandsia cordobensis, is a species of the genus Tillandsia. This species was described by Hipólito Ruiz López and José Antonio Pavon in 1802.

IDENTIFY TILLANDSIA CAPILLARIS

 Tillandsia capillaris is native to southern and western South America (Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Paraguay, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador), where it grows as an epiphyte at 0-2000 meters from sea level.

© varesinaorchidee

 It is a small sized epiphyte, capable of forming considerable groupings in relatively short times, which is very variable in both size and form, to 16 cm long in flower with a rosette form from distichous, mostly 1-4 cm long, rarely shorter or up to 9 cm long, densely and finely pruinose-lepidote with cinereous to ferruginous scales leaves with usually elliptic, thin, several-nerved, densely lepidote except where covered by the next below sheaths.

 This species blooms from ovate, acute or apiculate, thin with 3 or more strong nerves, densely lepidote to glabrous, usually equaling or exceeding the sepals bracts with 1-flowered, rarely 2-flowered. The flowers are subsessile, yellow, more or less orange, sometimes brown, sometimes very clear.

TILLANDSIA CAPILLARIS CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

 Tillandsia capillaris is not a full sun species: it needs a luminous position but protected from direct sun. It is recommend 17000-22000 lux as intensity.

© Robby's Sukkulentenseite

Temperature:

 The required temperature ranging from 10 to 32°C. This species enjoys significant differences in day / night temperatures, with a cooler period. In the period from April to November, when nighttime temperatures do not fall below 8-10 ° C, it can be placed outdoors in a luminous position but need protected from direct sunlight and strong rains. The plants should not face night temperatures below 3 ° C, especially if it is wet.

Mounting:

 This airplant can grow as epiphyte on a piece of wood for example or grow as lithophyte on a mineral support. You can place the plant very close to a window when grow it indoors in the winter and preferably outdoors in the summer with partial shade.

Watering:

 In the wild, the Tillandsia capillaris grows in places characterized by an almost desert climate and draws the humidity necessary mainly from the mists: which are very frequent and dense. Despite this, in cultivation it is recommend to water it regularly, especially during the summer.

 It is sufficient to water every 2-3 days in summer (even if water it every day in the summer, like almost all the other species) and every 4-5 days in winter (if it is kept in a place with the humidity of the high air movement, otherwise the frequency of watering will remain as in summer, reducing only the amount of water).

Fertilizer:

 Fertilizing is not absolutely necessary to survival, but will increase the growth and vigor of the plants and their blooms. This species need a fertilizer that can be absorbed directly in to the plant via the leaves and use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month in summer, once a month in winter is recommended.

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Tillandsia duratii care and culture

 Tillandsia duratii also called as Anoplophytum duratii, Phytarrhiza circinalis, Phytarrhiza duratii, Tillandsia circinalis, Tillandsia duratii var. duratii, Tillandsia gigantea, Tillandsia revoluta, Wallisia duratii, is a species of the genus Tillandsia. This species was described by Roberto de Visiani in 1841.

IDENTIFY TILLANDSIA DURATII

 Tillandsia duratii is native to the dry forests of Bolivia, the eastern areas of Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay and northern Argentina. It is found at various altitudes ranging from 200 to over 1300 meters, almost 3000 meters for saxatilis variety.

© Panos & Stavros

 It is a perennial epiphyte bromeliad, which reaching the height of 60 to 100 cm, with a rosette form from the numerous, yellow-green, linear and sessile with entire margins and parallel venation, densely covered by grey hairs leaves that able to bend backwards as the plant grows.

 This species blooms from a linear, flattened, tight, scaly and green inflorescence with panicles of purple (may be pure white, dark violet, yellow, and peach) funnel-shaped, very fragrant, non-tubular, 2.5 cm wide flowers. Each flower has three large, mostly lilac or purple petals that are free, not connated in a tube. The throat of the corolla is white. The duration of the blooms varies among plants and even between the bract and flower, with the bract lingering for much longer than the petals and stamens that emerge from it.

TILLANDSIA DURATII CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

 The main condition for ensuring optimal development is light. Light must be intense, but Tillandsia duratii should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Although some specimens can also be adapted to full sun exposures, adaptation to these conditions will lead to leaves damaged by burns.

 During the dry period, the plants can be placed outdoors, but when the prolonged rains begin, it will be better to protect it.

© Bocabroms | CC BY-SA 3.0

Temperature:

 The required temperature ranging from 10 to 32°C. This air plants should not face the night temperatures below -7 ° C, especially if it is wet. The plants can even faced temperatures close to 0 ° C (sheltered and dry) for a few hours without damage, but it should avoid in cultivation. The temperature in winter should be 15°C.

Mounting:

 This species can grow suspended (without any support) or grow as epiphyte. When cultivated as an epiphyte the plants are mounted on a piece of bark or a branch and the roots are wrapped in Sphagnum moss. Place the plant very close to a window when growing indoors in the winter and preferably out in the summer.

© Timm Stolten | CC BY-SA 3.0

Watering:

 Tillandsia duratii is suitable for both frequent and abundant watering; you can water it daily from April to November and every 2 days in the winter, keeping the humidity around 50-60% and the lighting close to 18000-27000 lux. It is recommended to use warm water when watering. If the light is less intense, it would be advisable to water it less.

Fertilizer:

 Fertilizing is not absolutely necessary to survival, but will increase the growth and vigor of the plants and their blooms. This species need a fertilizer that can be absorbed directly in to the plant via the leaves and use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month in summer, once a month in winter is recommended.

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Dendrobium polysema care and culture

 Dendrobium polysema also called as The Many-Spotted Dendrobium, Dendrobium macrophyllum var stenopterum, Dendrobium polysema var. pallidum, Dendrobium pulchrum, Dendrobium stenopterum, Sayeria polysema, is a species of the genus Dendrobium. This species was described by Rudolf Schlechter in 1906.

IDENTIFY DENDROBIUM POLYSEMA

 Dendrobium polysema is native to Bougainville Island, Solomon Islands, Santa Cruz Islands, Vanuatu and Papua New Guinea. In New Guinea, these plants meet in the Western Highlands, Morobe and Northern Province, where they grow on mossy trees in damp forests at 1200-1900 m, but on other islands they grow at heights of 150-700 m.

© sunoochi | CC BY 2.0

 It is a small to large sized, hot to cool growing epiphyte, which reaching 20-65 cm in height, with erect, 3 to 5 noded below the leaves, yellow, 10-40 cm long stems carrying, 2, elliptical-oblong, erect to spreading, 10-24 cm long leaves.

 The Many-Spotted Dendrobium blooms in fall till late winter and then in the spring on an erect, densely 8 to 12 flowered raceme that arises apical from the apex of a cane with open, flattened flowers. The flowers are 4-6 cm in diameter. The petals of both whorls are sometimes deeply wavy. Outer petals, densely covered with hairs on the underside, may be yellow or greenish with purple spots. The inner whorls have a cream color with chestnut spots. The area where the spots appear is very variable. The enlarged lip is gold with a greenish wand, which with age changes color to deep gold, then it fades. On the middle plot of the lip are purple dots, and purple stripes on side plots. The anther chamber is green.

DENDROBIUM POLYSEMA CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

 Dendrobium polysema needs a light level of 20000-30000 lux.

© sunoochi | CC BY 2.0

Temperature:

 Throughout the year the average day temperature is 23-25 ​​° C, night 13-14 ° C, giving a daily difference of 10-13 ° C.

Humidity:

 The Many-Spotted Dendrobium needs the average humidity of 70-75% throughout the year.

Substrate, growing media and repotting:

 These plants can be mounted on tree ferns or cork, if the humidity is high and it is possible to water at least once a day in the summer. If you grow them in pots, you can use bark or any other, loose, fast-drying substrate. Repotting can be done when new roots begin to grow.

Watering:

 In nature, precipitation is moderate to heavy throughout the year, but in winter for 1-2 months the conditions are a bit more dry. Dendrobium polysema should dry a little between waterings.

© Mauro Rosim

Fertilizer:

 Weekly or every 2 weeks use of a 1/4-1/2 dose of orchid fertilizer is recommended. Balanced fertilizer should be used for a year round.

Rest period:

 In winter, the amount of water and fertilizer needs to be slightly reduced, especially when Dendrobium polysema is grown in the conditions of a short, dark day at moderate latitudes. However, these plants should not completely dry out.

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Tillandsia fasciculata care and culture

 Tillandsia fasciculata also called as the giant airplant, cardinal airplant, quill-leaf airplant, common wild pine, clustered wild pine, dog-drink-water, Tillandsia eminens, Vriesea glaucophylla, Platystachys glaucophylla, Platystachys havanensis, Tillandsia havanensis, Tillandsia macrostachya, Tillandsia pungens, Tillandsia beutelspacheri, Tillandsia wilsonii, Tillandsia hystricina, is a species of the genus Tillandsia. This species was described by Olof Swartz in 1788.

IDENTIFY TILLANDSIA FASCICULATA

 Tillandsia fasciculate is native to Central America, Mexico, the West Indies, northern South America (Venezuela, Colombia, Suriname, French Guiana, northern Brazil), and the southeastern United States (Georgia, Florida). They grow in dense masses on tree trunks of rainforest and seasonally dry forest, mixed leaf forest, montane and cloud forest, dry thickets and woods, swamps at an altitude of 0-1800 meters, in sunny or rarely semi-shaded positions.

© Eric Hunt | CC BY-SA 3.0

 It is a medium-large sized epiphyte, rarely saxicolous, often grow in clusters, which reaching 20-100 cm tall (usually less than 60 cm), with a rosette form from 20-50, stiff and leathery (grayish-green, scaly, brownish at base), 30-70 cm long, wider at base and tapering to a pointed tip leaves.

 The giant airplant blooms with 10-50 flowered from the axils of showy, creamy yellow, reddish, orange to yellow floral bracts. The petals are violet or rarely white, 4.5 cm long. They can flowering and fruiting throughout the year, but most flowering collections have been made in January and July at the beginning of the dry and rainy seasons. Mature fruits have been seen chiefly in the dry season.

TILLANDSIA FASCICULATA CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light and temperature:

 The Tillandsia fasciculata needs a lot of light, but it is better to avoid the direct rays of the sun that can cause burns on the leaves. It grows well under artificial lighting, with light intensity of 17000-25000 lux.

 In the spring-summer period, when nighttime temperatures do not fall below 12-14 ° C, they can be placed outdoors in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight and protected from prolonged rains.

© Hans Hillewaert | CC BY-SA 3.0

Mounting:

 This species refer to be mounted on a solid substrate that does not retain water. You can glue the plant directly to the surface with a strong adhesive, or you can wire the plant to the base. Don't cover the base of the plant with moss or it may rot. It can be grown on almost any imaginable decorative mount, including shells, rocks, slate, driftwood, etc.

Watering:

 If it is necessary, Tillandsia fasciculata can withstand drought conditions for a short period, but in order to guarantee them a harmonious growth, we still recommend frequent watering: daily in the hot period and every 2-3 days in the winter.

 In winter it is better to limit to just spraying, while in the summer a nice water with warm water in the morning (and if the heat is considerable even a second water in the afternoon) is very welcome.

© Jason Hollinger | CC BY 2.0

Fertilizer:

 Fertilizing is not absolutely necessary to survival, but will increase the growth and vigor of the plants and their blooms. This species need a fertilizer that can be absorbed directly in to the plant via the leaves and use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month in summer, once a month in winter is recommended.

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Tillandsia gardneri care and culture

 Tillandsia gardneri also called as Anoplophytum rollissonii, Anoplophytum incanum, Tillandsia fluminensis, Tillandsia regnellii, Tillandsia cambuquirensis, Tillandsia venusta, is a species of the genus Tillandsia. This species was described by John Lindley in 1842.

IDENTIFY TILLANDSIA GARDNERI

 Tillandsia gardneri is native to Trinidad & Tobago, Colombia, eastern Brazil (as far south as Rio Grande do Sul) and Venezuela. They grows as an epiphyte on trees and other plants in tropical dry areas from near sea level to 1600 meters above sea level.

© Forest and Kim Starr | CC BY 2.0

 It is an epiphytic perennial, medium-sized species, which reaching 26-30 cm in diameter and 17-20 cm in length, with a small, only 12-25 cm high and wide rosette form from 10-27 cm long, triangular to filiform acuminate, without distinction between sheath and blade, 15-20 mm wide, silvery grey or grey-blue, flexible, lepidote soft and velvety leaves.

 This air plants blooms from late spring to late summer with 3 to 12, rosy-red to pale lavender-pink with 3 sepals and 3 petals, funnel-shaped flowers with spreading terminal lobes and green-pink floral bracts.

TILLANDSIA GARDNERI CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light and temperature:

 Tillandsia gardneri loves powerful and bright light, without direct sun in the hottest hours (from 12 to 16, when it needs protection with a curtain or with a little shade of other plants).

 During the spring-summer period, it likes to stay outdoors, in a position protected from excessive rains and possibly from the direct sun of lunchtime.

 The required temperature ranging from 10 to 32°C. It is quite resistant to cold and with appropriate adaptation it can withstand low temperatures: up to 2-3 ° C.

© BotBln | CC BY-SA 3.0

Mounting:

 This species refer to be mounted on a solid substrate that does not retain water. You can glue the plant directly to the surface with a strong adhesive, or you can wire the plant to the base. Don't cover the base of the plant with moss or it may rot. It can be grown on almost any imaginable decorative mount, including shells, rocks, slate, driftwood, etc. They can also be grown on slabs of bark or tree fern fiber which allow the plants to dry out between waterings.

Watering:

 Tillandsia gardneri should be water frequently and abundantly: every day during the hot months, especially when they are placed outdoors (in this case during the summer it also gets water twice a day); in winter, the interval between waterings can be 2-3 days (if the air is not excessively dry: ie the humidity is at least 50%).

© Forest and Kim Starr | CC BY 2.0

Fertilizer:

 Fertilizing is not absolutely necessary to survival, but will increase the growth and vigor of the plants and their blooms. This species need a fertilizer that can be absorbed directly in to the plant via the leaves and use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month in summer, once a month in winter is recommended.

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Dendrobium platygastrium care and culture

 Dendrobium platygastrium also called as The Broad-Bellied Dendrobium, Callista platygastria, Dendrobium camptocentrum, Dendrobium goldfinchii, Dendrobium platycaulon, Eurycaulis camptocentrus, Eurycaulis platygastrius, Pedilonum camptocentrum, Pedilonum platygastrium, is a species of the genus Dendrobium. This species was described by Heinrich Gustav Reichenbach in 1878.

IDENTIFY DENDROBIUM PLATYGASTRIUM

 Dendrobium platygastrium is native to New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. They grow in open forests with moss and ferns below 300 m. In New Caledonia they grow in dense, damp forests near rivers and waterfalls, from sea level up to 200 m. Though they are found in a vast area, these are rare plants.

© seidenfaden

 It is a miniature sized, hot to cool growing, epiphytic species, which reaching a size of 13-23 cm, with erect, clustered, flattened and club-shaped towards the apex, basally narrow, 10-15 cm long stems enveloped by leaf sheaths carrying 2 to 8, oval, thin, medium green, deciduous, 6-11 cm long leaves.

 The Broad-Bellied Dendrobium blooms in the spring and again in the fall on a terminal or lateral, 3 to 6 cm long, erect, few flowered, racemose inflorescence that arises from the nodes near the apex of leafed and leafless canes with non-resupinate flowers. The flowers are 2.0-2.5 cm in diameter and are barely open. They hang, and the lip is directed upwards. The petals of both whorls are white or white with a pinkish tinge. With age, they acquire a purple color. The dorsal petal is straight, oval to oval-elliptical and has a sharp tip. The side flakes spread out slightly, are oval and bent near the apex. The inner whorls are longitudinal-oval, straight and have rounded corners. The lip is white with a deep-yellow throat. The middle plot has a wide top with 5 parallel, slightly protruding stripes. They can self-pollinate.

DENDROBIUM PLATYGASTRIUM CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

 Dendrobium platygastrium needs a light level of 15000-25000 lux.

© P. O'Byrne

Temperature:

 The average temperature of the summer day is 29-30 ° C, night 21-23 ° C, giving a daily difference of 7-9 ° C. In winter the average day temperature is 24-26 ° C, night 16-18 ° C, with a daily difference of 7-8 ° C.

Humidity:

 The Broad-Bellied Dendrobium needs the humidity of 70-75% throughout the year.

Substrate, growing media and repotting:

 This species can be grown mounted on tree-fern rootstocks or cork as long as we can provide high humidity and watering in summer at least once a day. They can also grown in pots with any loose, quickly drying substrate. Old pseudobulbs continue blooming for many years and should not be removed when repotting.

Watering:

 In nature habitat, precipitation is relatively small, and the amount is almost the same for most of the year. The most dry season is late winter and spring, and the richest rainfall occurs in late summer and early autumn. Dendrobium platygastrium should dry a little between watering, but they can never be completely dry.

© seidenfaden

Fertilizer:

 Weekly 1/4-1/2 doses are recommended. From spring to mid-summer should be used fertilizer enriched with nitrogen, and then until the end of autumn fertilizer enriched with phosphorus.

Rest period:

 During winter, the amount of water and fertilization should be reduced, and the Dendrobium platygastrium should dry more than in the summer. However, they should not stay dry for too long.

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Mormodes rolfeana care and culture

 Mormodes rolfeana also called as Rolfe's Mormodes, is a species of the genus Mormodes. This species was described by Lucien Linden in 1891.

IDENTIFY MORMODES ROLFEANA

 Mormodes rolfeana is native to Ecuador and Peru. In Ecuador, they were meet in the province of Morona-Santiago, in the Cordillera Condor band at an altitude of 1100 m. In Peru, they grow in the Pasco department about 15 km north-east of Oxapampa, along the Gramaz River, at an altitude of 1750 m. They were also found between Villarica and Cacazu at an altitude of 1500 m and near Oxapampa above Hacienda San Isidro at an altitude of 1885 m. This orchid grows in cool and humid rainforests.

© Macaroni

 It is a robust, medium sized, caespitose, warm to cool growing epiphytic species, which reaching a height of 60-70 cm, with fusiform to ovoid-fusiform, up to 27 cm in length and up to 3.6 cm in diameter pseudobulbs covered with 6 to 9 pairs of distichous, imbricating leaf sheaths carrying lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, subcoriaceous, bright green, up to 25-40 cm long leaves.

 Rolfe's Mormodes blooms in the winter and spring on an erect, 28 cm long, 6 to 10 flowered, racemose inflorescence that arises from the lower part of a mature pseudobulb with leaves and has fragrant flowers that are held at midleaf. The flowers are about 10 cm in size. The petals and sepals are greenish with green veins. The lip is golden yellow. Column pink-purple above, with a green stigma and a dark red-purple lid of anther chamber. There is also another description of the flowers as light green or golden-yellow with red or dark green streaks on the flakes of both whorls and at the base of the lip, the inner part of which is dark red-nutty. And another description of the flowers with the dark pink acid with many small, darker red dots on the petals of both whorls.

MORMODES ROLFEANA CARE AND CULTURE

 Cultural information should only be used as a guide, and should be to be adapted to suit you. Your physical location; where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants.

Light:

 Mormodes rolfeana needs a light level of 25000-40000 lux. These plants grow best in bright, but slightly diffused light and need protection from direct southern sun. Strong air movement should be ensured all the time.

© narcisabsinthe

Temperature:

 It is a plant with moderate thermal requirements. The temperature is similar throughout the year - with the average temperatures of 23-24 ° C, average night temperatures 11-12 ° C, with an amplitude of daily variations of 11-13 ° C. If you have a cooling air humidifier, this orchid will grow well close to the cold, humid air outlet.

Humidity:

 Rolfe's Mormodes needs the humidity of 75-80% throughout the year.

Substrate, growing media:

 Mormodes rolfeana grow well attached to pieces of tree ferns, with high humidity provided, and during the summer they will be irrigated at least once a day. In the case of such mounted plants, during the dry and hot periods it may be necessary to water several times a day.

 However, these plants are usually grow in pots or baskets, using a loose substrate that rapidly drains excess water that contains substances that retain a certain amount, such as sphagnum cut peat moss and perlite. Wood charcoal is also often added to ensure the air permeability of the substrate and protection against acidification. In addition to the standard fir bark substrate, growers successfully use sphagnum moss, pumice, cork pieces, and even a mixture of equal parts of fermented and fresh horse manure and charcoal. As you can see, you can use almost any substrate, provided you choose the right pattern of watering.

Repotting and dividing:

 If only sphagnum moss is used as the substrate, then annual repotting will be necessary, because such a substrate decomposes quite quickly. Many people recommend repotting every year regardless of the type of substrate used, but this is not absolutely necessary until it begins to decompose. Repotting is carried out when a new growth appears at the base of the pseudobulb.

 All pseudobulbs should be separated and only 1-2 pseudobulbs are left in the pot. Because the old roots are dying, most of them can be cut off. A few can be left to facilitate plant fixing in new substrate until new roots develop. After repotting, no plants are watered until the new growth release the roots into a new substrate, and its height reach 10-12 cm. Only then you can take a normal watering, paying attention to the fact that the water does not get into the funnel parting in the new growth, because it can destroy the growth due to decay.

 After repotting 1-2 pseudobulbs, the remaining can be used as the beginnings of new plants. The old roots should be removed, and the pseudobulbs laid flat in a shallow container with sphagnum moss. After some time, from the bottom or sides of the pseudobulb grows new growths. Some recommend that in the waiting period older tubers should be placed in an upright position in empty pots. It may take up to several months before a new growth occurs, but once it appears, the pseudobulb with the new increment should be planted in such a way that the new increment is on the surface of the substrate, or slightly below. If there are several increments along the sides of the pseudobulb, simply place it on the surface of the substrate.

Watering:

 Mormodes rolfeana should often be watered during active growth, but excellent drainage should be ensured so that the substrate within the roots is not degraded or soggy.

© Kamila Irie

Fertilizer:

 During the active growth, the plants should be fertilized every week 1/4-1/2 of the recommended dose of fertilizer for orchids. A fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is beneficial from spring to mid-summer, and a fertilizer richer in phosphorus should be used in late summer and autumn.

Rest period:

 Mormodes rolfeana will feel good at any temperature, as long as they are not wet and the temperatures are not below 0 ° C. When the leaves fall down, the plants need less water, sometimes it can do without watering at all. Too much water in winter is the fastest way to bring the majority of the plants to death. Watering is necessary only when the pseudobulbs strongly wrinkle, but usually this problem does not arise if the humidity is high. Fertilization should be eliminated until new growths appear and more watering begins in the spring. The new growths are extremely sensitive to rotting, so you need to be careful that the water does not rest on the growing young peaks of growth.

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